Hoi an and South

Trip Start Dec 08, 2007

Trip End Jan 11, 2008

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Flag of Vietnam Nga Trang, Vietnam
Saturday, December 22, 2007

We travel to Hoian by bus - as there is only 6 of us it is pretty cruisey with loads of space for everyone. On the way our trip leader - Tri - tells us of us families struggle to survive when the communists moved south - his story is incredibly sad. His father was a proffessor of Mathematics at the university, his mother a teacher - they had a comfortable life. He has twin brothers and a sister. When the North invaded they had to leave home with as much as they could carry and flee over the Hai Van pass to his uncle in Da Nang. There they had to abandon virtually everything and 7 family members crowded into a round boat made of bamboo and pitch - these are circular and measure about 1.5mtrs across. They all rowed for several hours in terrible conditions - their family just one of thousands. They are searching for the American fleet which unbeknowst to them has moved North. They come across a barge and climb on board with 100's of others. They have no food or water for 6 days! They are barely alive - an American ship finds them and they dump 3 lots of water into the barge. 2 lots they can't get to and in the crush to get to the 3rd lot his brothers leg is broken so they still don't get water. The american ship even tually takes them on board. Many people have died and the rest are very weak. Many drink too much water too quickly and also die on board. Tri and his father who has only the use of 1 leg have to climb rope ladder. Many people fall and die or are crushed between the ship and the barge. The rest of the family is hauled on board in a box. They have all survived. Tri and his Mum have to go to the hospital and he doesn't remember much. After nearly a month, by various means they reach Saigon and an uncle who had given them up for dead. The families story from there is very hard but they are now all succesful in their own ways. Tri fought in Cambodia and in Vietnam and has been imprisoned and re-educated but for all that he has an amazing sense of humour, smile and love for his country. We don't know how lucky we are folks.
We get to Hoian via the Haivan pass and China Beach - both interesting stopping points.
Hoian is a mixture of Vietnamese, chinese, japanese and french architecture. It is a bustling little town which 1 month ago was 3 metres under water. They are very tenacious people the Vietnamese. There is little evidence of the devastation that must have occured.
Ian and I get clothes made to measure. Twas an experience. Ian has more success than me and looks very posh in his duds.
Another boat trip takes us up river at night for a meal in an open pavillion style restaraunt. Tri is very good at leading us to the good eating spots! The food is good everywhere and it is always fun talking to the people...my vietnamese is terrible but it raises a few smiles. Many of the young people want to practise their english skills so we have had some interesting converstions.
On Friday we travel south on the reunification express from Hoi an to Nga Trang. A very long journey but awesome countryside to look at on the way. The rice paddies are in full rotational production this far south, at this time of year. We see rice at every stage. The paddocks being plowed and flattened - often with the help of the family water buffalo. Baby rice paddies where the rice is sown and grown to about 8 inches and then transplanted. Transplanting in progress. Rice in flower and rice ready to harvest. The colours are amazing with the contrasts between emerald green and muddy brown all intersected by the raised pathways that divide the paddies. And everywhere there is workers, knee deep in water and using the basic implements of their trade. We are in the train for 10 hours - at about 7.30pm we discover they have opened the windows in the hallway and Ian and I ride the rest of the way into Nga Trang like 2 kids with our chins on the window sills looking out on the countryside at night.
Today is Saturday and it has been spent on the water ...again. We go by boat to visit a fishing village. This is an interesting walk but I struggle with 2 year olds holding out their little hands for money. We have helped out in various ways throughout this trip with organisations that are supported by Intrepid - Blue Dragon and Koto being 2 of them. Both take young people off the streets and give them food and housing and education and as far as possible set them up for life. We have also made a point of buying from workshops that support the handicapped and victims of the problems created by agent orange.. After the village we anchor for a swim and snorkel session and our local guide, Thanh, leads us on rousing renditions of Oma Rapiti, Waltzing Maltilda, jingle bells to mention but a few. Then we have lunch - local food including shrimps ....num! We motor off to a beach for a couple of hours in deck chairs - very relaxing indeed.
We are going to explore the city soon but have been warned to watch out for pick pockets....hmmmm I will let you know if we encounter any!
Thinking of you all and hoping you are well and happy

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