Zagora, the savage town

Trip Start Jan 05, 2008
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19
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Trip End Ongoing


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Where I stayed
Chez Ali

Flag of Morocco  ,
Sunday, February 3, 2008

As you pull into the Zagora bus station you're hit immediately by a wall of wolves, They crowd the bus, pushing and snapping at each other for space , The gazelles on the bus are at first hypnotized by the beauty of the ride and unable to interpret the the wolve's intentions. Then the door opens, and the wolves board the bus clamourinng over each other, drooling and snapping. The gazelles are hit with nature's urge to run, but this is an old game and the wolves have them cornered.
`Come to my hotel! What hotel are you in? oh that's my family's hotel, I'll take you there!`
One of the larger wolves manages to push past the others and makes a break for it, pouncing on the still shocked gazelle before it is even fully out of it's seat.
One day, the wolves will have ravaged the wild gazelle population to extinction. Then they too will die.

The point is, Zagora is a cute little town, but watch out for the locals. The cafes are nice, and the restaurant fare goes beyond the casual list that every restaurant in the rest of the country follow, but most of the locals are focused on touristic revenue so they can be quite aggressive. The games that they play are complex and intense, mixing any piece of information they can find with local family politics. Store owners arr so desparate that they will cross the street to get your attention, every one requiring you to repeat the same ten minute conversation before you can go. When you learn different ways to break the game they get rude and angry, bearing their canines.
At one point Rob and I had a man guiding us to the hotel, telling us he was the hotel reception, and at the same time trying to buy off our guide. He was the lead wolf, whom I spent the rest of the weekend dispatching. Aftee I finally got rid of him I still had to deal with eveey other con man in the city, who all seemed to know my name, my countty of origin and were cousins of my guide, the alpha wolf and the hotel management. Either there's a lot of shady business in Zagora or a lot of incest.
It's no wonder there's such a heaby gendarme presence there.

The hotel was nice, but the staff weren't. We were hoping for a couple of niggts rest, a day of Shabot in their beautiful garden. It wasn't to be.
First they left us to the wolves at the station, they treated us poorly at the checkin, then they hounded us in succession to take their tour. We had to flee to our room just escape them.

Thanks to our guide who showed me around the palmeries and took me to his grandfathers for dinner. There I saw some true Moroccan culture and hospitality.
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