Heliotopos: A place in the sun

Trip Start Aug 16, 2009

Trip End Aug 27, 2009

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Flag of Greece Fira, Cyclades, Greece
Saturday, August 15, 2009

Our plane descended as it flew over the small crescent island of Santorini. It then turned away from it's shores and flew out over the sea before turning back toward the island. At the last possible moment the plane turned 90 degrees to avoid flying into the hillside above the airport. As it turned the wings levelled and the plane came down gently for a perfect landing on the burning tarmac of the main runway. This was a normal approach and the only way to bring the aircraft down when the wind is from the north.

I had read that some visitors to the greek island of Santorini may find the volcanic landscape dark and disturbing, and that it takes at least a week to get used to it. It is true that Santorini is an ancient volcano with a caldera filled with the mediterranean. Nothing grows without irrigation as rainfall is mimimal throughout the year. During our two week stay we saw one small cloud in a deep blue sky that stretched from horizon to horizon, from dawn to dusk.

It is true that the landscape is barren and the earth is dark brown, although there is nothing disturbing about it. The geology is spectacular, especially when the evening light casts its long rays over the tall cliffs. The white architecture is almost organic in the way that it flows over the landscape and down the cliffs. The angle of walls, surfaces and sky create a divine geometry that gives the island its exquisite beauty. The white terraces of small houses shine in the dazzling sun. The heat penetrates the limbs and gladdens the heart. This is a place in the sun for lovers on a honeymoon fit for greek gods.

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