Cochabamba
Trip Start
Mar 16, 2010
1
28
65
Trip End
Sep 11, 2010
Cochabamba, Bolivia
Wednesday, May 19, 2010
Cochabamba was a nice place, busy, cheap and a certain go-go-go factor about the place. Gringos were few and far between. The square, Plaza Colon was an idyllic place to chill out and watch the world go-by, or as we quickly noticed, one of the morning protests perhaps. The one we saw were the marcha for the Agricultural Workers and one for the Teachers Union the following day- both asking for higher wages at the Plaza 14 de Septiembre. The image of protests in the UK is often a derrogatory one, which is not justified as the protest were vociferous but yet respectful at the same time. Plaza Colon is worth a visit too, a more picturresque square than the former and nice to relax at after a large meal or simply consuming an ice cream in the afternoon sun. Also if your James then read the World Cup news in the local Spanish paper.
Due to illness, mobility was limited. We did however take a trip to La Cancha- the large market at the bottom of the city and visit various eateries, with Cafe Paris on Plaza 14 de Septiembre being the ideal place to watch protests and enjoy the almost carnival atmosphere during breakfast hours. La Cancha was an ideal place for buying two table or bed spreads, some wooden pots for dips and all the necessities that a traveller would need. Also visited was the El Cristo de La Concordia, higher than the Cristo del Corcovado in Rio de Janeiro in
Brazil. A spectacular view was had, almost a birdīs eye view of the city was highly adored by both parties.
Although illness had linited us to minimal functionality, we ventured out to Palacio Portales and how worth this trip was in a taxi. Especially considering the discount that James obtained by talking to the taxi driver non stop during the ride. The Palace of īBig Doorsī belonged to Simon Patiņo, a tin miner. A man who became the 6th richest man in the world in the early 20th century and was the largest tin miner/owner in the world. A refreshing rags to riches story was order of the day. Pictures of the European influenced palace are minimal due to pictures not being allowed to be taken inside the actual mansion. Construction works began in 1915 on the house and were
completed by 1927; but Seņor Patiņo never actually lived in the house nor did any of his offspring. Today it is managed by the Patiņo corporation which promotes the arts and uses the house in question as a cultural centre and hosts a variety of events. One thing to add is that the house was exclusively made from imported materials, the finest Italian marble, English oak, depictions of the Roman Emperors, large canvasses with the first paintings of the Pope on his way to the Vatican. The Palacio Portales also had another major standing in Bolivian history- the 1952 Bolivian revolution. The revolution being perhaps the most important political and social event in the 20th century. The government increased public ownership of the tin industry, the petroleum trade and transportation- all to the deficit of Simon Patiņo. All of Patiņo s holdings were expropriated and placed in the hands of the new state firm, COMIBOL. Patiņo didnt resist the communist and leftist revolution and happily handed over machinery and possessions. His trade did not face huge resistance due to it being known that his mines were the best for their conditions and the terms and conditions that the workers were under. As one can see, we learnt a lot of history during our time in Cochabamba and again become more in touch with the history of Bolivia and its peoples. The trip to Palacio Portales was given a greater significance due to our previous visit to Potosi where the largest silver mines are housed. The conditions there are currently appalling and worse than they were 100 years ago under Mr Patiņo for example.
In conclusion, nationalisation brought a lack of investment and social care for the miners similar to the events that happened in Britain in the 1970s and 80s under Maggie T- the mining industry collapsing and huge unemployment becoming common place.
Off to Santa Cruz we go!
