Fjord Hopping from Stavanger Norway
Trip Start Jun 15, 2004
40Trip End Apr 03, 2005
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We found a campground in Stavanger where we pitched our tent on a big ol' lawn with many other tenters and RV'ers. There were showers, a place to do laundry and only a 3 km hike to town. This was to be our home for a few days. There are a couple of pictures that kept showing up in the brochures. One was Preikestolen or Pulpit Rock which is a flat block of rock about 1800 feet above the Lysefjord and has sheer cliffs on three sides. The other was Kjerag which is a rock that is wedged between two mountains and sits 3500 feet above the fjord with a sheer drop
We went to bed with the sun setting and woke up to, you guessed it, fog and cloud. We quickly packed up before the rain hit and we were on our way to Kjerag and then on to Øygardstolen where we would catch a cab to Lysebotn. The trail went up one pass after another each time gaining and losing 1000 feet of elevation. We now know why the maps note travel time in hours and not kilometers. We came over the final pass and headed to Kjerag just as a doozy of a storm struck. The wind was gusting to about 40 miles an hour with driving rain. It was blowing so hard that Jacquie was blown off of her feet. We checked out the Kjerag Rock and both of us felt a bit of vertigo looking straight down over 3000 feet to the fjord below. The fjord ferry looked very small. After a few pictures we pushed on. There were still 3 more passes to go up and over before Øygardstolen. The storm raged on and we had to use chains bolted into the side of the mountain slab in order to get up and over without blowing into the fjord. It sounds like we weren't having fun but thats so not true. The clouds were flying out of the fjords in a tempest. Rather Valhalla like. We had a great trip but decided that we were too wet to carry on to Preikestolen so we spent the night at the end of Lysefjorden and then took the ferry back to Stavanger. We hopped on the overnight train and here we are in Oslo. We are awaiting our train to Copenhagen where we hope to find the sun. Norway is a beautifully rugged country steeped in history that we Canadians find it hard to fathom. We would highly recommend this as a destination but, bring your rain gear.
Thinking of you all, (hope summer and stampede are going well)