Bhaktapur's Quest
Trip Start
Jul 25, 2011
1
20
25
Trip End
Sep 01, 2011
Bhaktapur, Nepal
Wednesday, August 24, 2011
My quest mainly revolved around finding a cheap bus to this place by myself, without having to pay an astronomical price to a taxi driver. I'm really not such a cheap guy, but the thought of spending 5 euros for a one-way trip when the bus costs 0.20 just doesn't sound right to me. After walking for a while under the burning sun of Kathmandu I finally reached the city bus stand and got my dirt cheap ticket to the very first visit to the outskirts of the capital's metro area.
The ride was surprisingly comfortable and interesting: after a quick ride through the suburbs, we crossed a couple of bridges apparently held together just by the goodwill of Buddha and finally reached the beautiful Bhaktapur, which was the site where Bertolucci shot his masterpiece "Little Buddha".
Went through amazingly silent roads (most cars are banned) and an entire alley of pottery makers, finally reached the beautiful Taumadhi Tol, its temples and the magnificent atmosphere of a Kathmandu virtually untouched by industrialization. The Nyatapola, its most famous building rises in the middle of the town and represents one of the many treasures this amazing country has to offer to the world. At its base, several statues of guardian animals and mythological figures try to scare off the evil, but not the intrepid tourists and local people that like to sit at its top and stare at the distant mountain range for hours. I admit to have fallen for a tourist trap here: beautiful Cafe Nyatapola is located inside a whole temple, and offers unbeatable views, good meals and decent prices. It was like having lunch on the top of the Pisa tower, but it was one of those experiences that you will always remember.
A cup of delicious yoghurt later, I went back downstairs to continue the tour. Bhaktapur has a Durbar Square as well (it basically means palace square so of course it does), with more temples, royal buildings and so many combinations of colours, angles and statues to make you lose your mind for a whole afternoon. Again, lots of limitations to photographers and non-Hindus, but not a worry, I had my good deal of sights and views already. Also witnessed the funniest scene of the trip: a frail, old woman running after a veal that ate some of the vegetables she was selling. So much for sacred cows.
Later that day I took the same bus back to Kathmandu, spent a couple of hours browsing the stores without buying anything-again. Just having a look, ok? It will be easier to buy stuff when I'll be back here on my way out of Nepal. Seen some magnificent craftwork but the prices offered by the vendors really turned me off and I just cannot stand the idea of having to waste half an hour to pay 10 for something initially sold at a "friendly price" of 20, that should cost 5 and other people will pay 40.
Anyway, getting better and better here. Nepal is really growing on me, and I'm supposed to be visiting the "worst" of it right now, so I cannot wait to see the good, the great and the awesome of it.
Tomorrow off to Patan for my last day in the big city before heading off to Pokhara!
