Not much done in Bamako
Trip Start
Jan 06, 2007
1
16
17
Trip End
Feb 12, 2007
Kayes, Mali
Thursday, February 1, 2007
To explain past events, I took the bus from Severe to Bamako on Sat figuring that Sat night in Bamako is party night (me being ya ultimate party gal obviously). Oh, and something about the vague rumour that Salif Keita would be playing there (true, actually).
Events did't turn out as I had expected and my first day in Mali's capital city was pretty shitty to say the least. Won't go into it now - will write a seperate entry on it when I get a bit more perspective.
Almost as prophetic compensation, I did have a great Friday night in Mopti, As I mentioned in my last entry, I stayed behind because i heard that Toumani Diabete would be playing there. In the event, he WAS actually playing in Bamako but didn't really regret not going as the event I attended was fabulous. And trust me, for me to say that I don't mind missing Toumani Diabete is saying a huge amount...
The night itself was some kind of cultural event sponsored by the Malian ministry and featured music acts from different ethnic groups in Mali. All of them were fantastic except for the Malian version of Westlife, who were fantastic in a completely different way (one that involved rather undignified sniggering on my part). Obviously, they were the ones most of the crowd were waiting for which shows you that colour is no bar to bad music taste on the part of adolescents. The guy I was going with (Sam - guitar guy on pinasse) found it all so distressing but then, he's a Nietzche-admiring gap year student so he would. Well, at least they didn't even bother to lipsync as they were too busy dancing (charmingly not really in sync) and running around amongst the crown. One of them even took his shirt of and was obviously clenching his buttocks! Obviously; this is where Western boy bands need to go to learn new moves...
Have to make it clear that they were the odd group out by far. And it's nice to know that Mali does have crap music acts. Was beginning to wonder...
Mine and Sam's favourite act was right at the end - Idrissa Soumayroe I think his name is. CD shopping, methinks. I also loved the way that the crowd really got ino the spirit of things - there's no "too cool to dance" here. Most members of the audience were either dressed in their dazzling best (dazzling is the word) or in their traditional ethnic costume with accoutrements. Most often, both. However, it was wonderful to see a Sonhai with a basket of grain do a coordinated low level boogee with a veiled Tourag with his sword. Traditional enemies, apparently. Gave me a good feeling about Mali's future as a nation.
As it happens, on the ride to Bamako from Mopti, I sat next to this guy who works for the Culture ministry and we had a great 3 hour chat about everything from women's rights to the role of culture in development.. Great guy- he was actually involved in organising that concert in Mopti. He very kindly gave me a lift being very careful to show off his Mercedes! Well, if you have it...
Back to Bamako then. All I can say is that it's a big dusty city with only one "tourist attraction" as such - a small but interesting National Museum. Other than that it seems to be one of those places that are great to live in but crappy to visit. As a resident, you know where the good places are for music and shopping and you probably don't get the same amount of hassle... However, one thing I would get tired of rather quickly if i ever lived there are the mozzies - never seen so many in one place. Bloody bastards. Will never see their point in the eco-system.
I was staying at this great place though - theCatholic Mission run by nuns!! Cheap but stuffy dorms but very friendly woman running things (she let me drag the matress outinto the corridor to sleep). I love the fact that it makes no pretense at being a hotel of any sort - just a place to sleep. Loved the fact that the boys dorms were the ones with a mirror. They say it's to shave but don't believe them.
Monday and Tuesday were spent doing boring admin things, job interviews, and realizing how little time I actually had for Senegal. Still wondering how I'm going to fit it all in - shouldn't really have spent quite so many lazy days in Severe. Coming back to bite me now.
Lest I be accused of not giving Bamako a chance, I did meet up on Sunday with the Ghanaian guy I met on the pinasse and we had lunch at the musem (I was so happy - they had Morrocan mint tea!!) and walked up the hill for a view over Bamako. Unfortunatley, not really sure that Bamako's skyline really warrented the effort - not particulaarly interesting and couldn't even be arsed to take a photo.
Afer a lot of umming and ahhing, finally decided to take a direct bus to Dakar - the idea being that it would leave this morning and arrive in Dakar tomorrow eveing. As I thought that I would be going for a mamoth 36 hr bus journey, went rather crazy on the whole shopping for sweets, pringels, biscuits (none of which I've actusally eaten so far). Turns out that we're spending the evening/night in Kayes before heading across the boroder at 4am. Yep, 4am.
So I'm now in an overpriced but air-conditioned hotel having a few hours repreive from the crowded and rather uncomfortable bus. it's not exactly that bad but the seats were all designed for kids, I think, as the guys next to me is definitely overflowing into my seat, without much choice I think. Probably a good thing that when I get back on that bus, I'll hopefully be so knackered that I'd sleep anywhere.
One thing that just happened was that I got a phone call from Shindouck (festival guy) out of the blue. It was so so sweet - he told me that the family missed me and were always asking after me, and that I'll always have a family in Timbuktu. In terms of all the really nice people that I've met since I've been in Mali, they were the best and I think I will take him up on his offer and came back to Mali to discover the "real" desert. And it was nice to be the "Princess" again after the last couple of weeks of just being "toubab" or "Japan/Chine".
Over and out.
