Kas Kas Kas

Trip Start Nov 05, 2008
1
11
16
Trip End Nov 25, 2008


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Flag of Turkey  , Antalya,
Monday, November 17, 2008

Kas (pronounced Kash)

The road to Kas from Antalya is a black ribbon of new asphalt that coils and whips around the rugged coastline of southwestern Turkey towards the Aegean Sea. It is a beautiful ride with several stops for bathroom breaks and to pick up passengers. Fortunately, this driver keeps the radio off. At one of the stops we meet Mustafa, a cute young man who is on his way to Kas to try to find an apartment to rent before he begins a new job there next month. He will have one hour before the bus leaves again for Antalya. He wants to practice his English. He allows Denis and me to trot out the several phrases of Turkish we have struggled to master. He had tried being a travel agent but found it too crooked so now he will try his hand at managing the newest location of one of Turkey's largest food stores. He hopes he will like living in Kas. We also meet a young woman from Las Vegas who let us know that she did not like big cities when we told her that we were from NY. We got back on the bus.

We got a glimpse of what Kas would be from several miles
away on the coastal road, which winds around the mountainside before descending
towards this idyllic little village. From the center square next to the marina
which is filled with restaurants, every road rises in the steep ascent of pastel colored villas, newly built for wealthy Brits and Germans. There is also a small square for the locals centered around a fountain that hosts its
disproportionate number of barber shops. The haircuts on the young men down here are incredible works of gravity defying sculpture.

Historically Kas was one of the first resort towns discovered by sun chasers for development on the Turquoise
Riviera. Fortunately the focus shifted further west (closer to the airport) and Kas was left behind with most of its original charm and beauty in tact

Our hotel room at the Sarduyna Hotel has a balcony and a beautiful view of the sea framed on one side by bougainvillea vines that climb the façade of the hotel. It is clean, and comfortable with ample hot water. Low Season price, 35 US. I think, once again, that D and I are the only guests here. There is not a lot to do in Kas but eat, drink and marvel at the color of the sea without renting motorbike, bicycles or taking a guided tour to the nearby historical sites. Denis and I settled on an after noon, self guided walking tour to the couple of Lydian Tombs high on the hillside of town that date from the 3rd century BC. Of course we got lost. And of course, that meant an hour detour up, then down a steep mountain only to find that we could have arrived at the tombs, unwinded and dry had the maps been better. Maybe it was the map reader(s)...

Our first night in Kas we headed to on of Lonely Planets suggestions for dinner; Bu Lokma. It is a charming family run restaurant, famous for its Mama's Pastry which turned out to be a big deep fried burrito-like affaire stuffed with chicken, lamb, rice and cheese. The owner's daughter proudly told us it was her mother's invention. I wanted to tell here about Mexico but held my tongue.

Lunch the next day was a simple meal of salad, lentil soup and big, rubbery rings of fried calamari at the Akdeniz Restaurant (Seaside Restaurant) which got our business mostly out of pity. It's interesting to note that almost all the restaurants, cafes and bars offer the same menu at virtually the same prices. They are all in a row or facing each other yet some are busy and others are empty. The owner of the Akdeniz seemed forlorn just yards away from Café Baba Noel which was buzzing with customers. We wouldn't find out until the next morning when we went searching for a non-Turkish breakfast that Café Baba Noel is just a better restaurant particularly if your feeling a bit homesick or tired of THE TURKISH BREAFAST. Maybe the German and British expats who while their winters away in Kas know this already.

I think Denis is working on a Food Edition so I'll save my comments on Turkish Cusine until then...

And so, we finished our time in Kas and will move on Patarra tomorrow morning
Slideshow Report as Spam
Where I stayed
Hotel Sardunya

Comments

madlionden
madlionden on

Ain't you sweet...
Thanks so much for my special fluffy cat.

speechie
speechie on

Hi Guys!
Your writing is so descriptive, I feel like I am traveling with you. However, I probably could pass up the food!! Coffee sounds good though. Sounds like you are getting as much exercise as in the big city -NY!!! Love to both of you, PAM

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