Northern Sudan during a Muslim holiday
Trip Start Oct 10, 2009
86Trip End Aug 31, 2010
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Where I stayed
So after Wadi Halfa we decided to go down Northern Sudan along the Nile river, the so-called Nubian region. There are basically many small towns and villages along the river, and you really feel Africa! There are fewer restaurants, after dark there is pretty much nobody on the street, the supermarkets only have 30 items or so and the roads are far away from being paved
Since HelMan basically stands for extreme hardcore spontaneous backpacking, of course we didn't know that we were travelling to a Muslim country during Eid, the most important Muslim holiday (comparable to Christian Easter/Christmas). This means that everything is closed for 3 to 5 days, including hotels, restaurants, supermarkets or any other kind of shops and of course there is also very limited transportation available. To make a long story short, we basically were sleeping at people's houses because we didn't have a hotel, we were eating beans ("fuul") 3 times a day and actually had to beg for food for the first time in our lives and we were stuck in Abri for 3 1/2 days because there was no bus to the next town. Furthermore we saw the slaughter of 5 sheeps in total (a Muslim has to sacrifice a sheep during Eid) and Heli even was allowed to assist (what a bloody honour, hehe). Apart from the kinda negative experiences during Eid we spent wonderful times sitting at the banks of the Nile, watching the sunset just by ourselves, the kind of travel experience everybody is always looking for, just enjoying the peaceful moment without hassle and letting the mind slip away and simply relax
By the way, on the bus from Wadi Halfa to Abri an old man shit his pants, it smelled really bad so the people in the bus simply put up incense sticks...
After we finally got a bus out of Abri we arrived in Kerma, which wasn't much better because everything was still closed and we stayed at a place that was incredible. It was probably the most messy place we have ever seen and the following day Sven, the german guy we meet again and again, refused to sleep inside the room because of moldy yoghurt below his bed.
However our neighbours was apparently an egyptian family which seemed to have some serious problems... the father a choleric, the kids seriously bored and the wife definitely lazy.
Due to our hardcore backpacker attitude and drinking water from the Nile Helmut felt during our first night some sickness. however it stayed with the feeling. the following night Manuel got seriously sick and had a morning he spent on the toilet.
Kerma was nothing much to be talked about, it was a dirty little town with no good access to the river and some friendly people. We left town very early. the bus was supposed to leave at 8. we left at 10 towards Karima.