Kefalonia, Greece
Monday, July 12, 2004
June 29th- Kylie and I headed down to the bus stop around 9;10 for the 9;30 bus which ended up being 45 minutes late, typically greek, haha. Switched pbuses in Pyrgos and wemt to the pot of Kylinni where we grabbed a ferry to Poros on the island of Keffalonia. WE slept most of the 1 and a half over as we were so tired from the nigth before. THe island was quite a sight to see as we approached. This mountainous, green island is where Captain Corelliłs Mandolin was filmed. When we got off the ferry we walked to the actual town center where we looked for a room. WE found one above a restaurant right on fromt of the beach. IT was a good price and had air conditioning. Its amazing how cheap we could get places in Greece that were so ice(kitchen included, good view, etc) compared to the big dorm room hostles Ił paying more for her in Italy. After we dropped our bags off we crossed the street to the beach and had a swim, There was a platform about 15 feet high jetting out form a cliff that we jumped off as well
. Then we showerd and had supper at the restaurant next door caleed To KEntrikon (the Central) I had the traditional kefalonian meat pie and kylie a veggie mousaka, shared some tzataki, wine and baclava for dessert. The waitreses were so helpful and gave us a book on the island befoe the 1953 earthquake to show us what thje island looked like. WE looked at soem shops and then went to bed beofre 9pm, so tired! We woke up and hour and a haldf later to someone coming inot our room. I jumped out of bed to find the land lady coming in woht my passport to return and to take away the extra tcv that was in our roo, presumably for some new occupants. Gave us a fright, but soon we were back tp sleep. In the morning we went downstairs for breakfast and paid for our room. THem as we waited for the bus we thought was coming at 9;30 (but didnłt) I wen to the post to send home some camping stuff. IT was too expensive, so i left it in our room. WE were told three times for the bus to coem by 3 different people, all who were wrong. Greek people seem to always have to give you an anser no matter what. But, itłs okay, because we decided to hitch hike. As we were waiting, the owner from teh restaurant\hotel came up in his scooter with my tent. had to explain teh situation to him. The greek people are so kind. Took a while and a niblle on a spinach pie before we got picked up by a young couple on their honeymoom named Victoria(british) and Sean(South African). They had two week son the island and had seen the whole place
. THey werenąt going in our direction but took us to where we wanted to go anyway, which was Sami. They told us about a restaurant in Argostoli, that they had been to twice already, and had greek dancing and good food, THey were going again that night and invited us to the best table in the house that was reserved for them. After they dropped us off, we were looking for a place to stay when we stopped at a scooter place to check out the prices. The man there took us to where he stays. WE had a look and liked it. IT was a lovely two storey house with our room in the top right corner with a terrace with table and chairs that you walked on to. THe room had a kitchenette and all. They broke us a very good deal because it wasnąt busy. Then we walked down to the center again and rented a scooter from the man. He ended up giving it to ius empty and told us to drive down to the nearest gas station about 2 km away. IT ran out of gas half way there, and we had to walk it the rest of the way!! Anyhowm we filled it up and headed off to Melissani Cave. We walked down some steps to the ground below and walked down a tunnel with a turqoise finishm the lake. The brakish water glows a brightcolour as there is a large hole in the roof of the cave. WE went for a boat ride and into a covered part of the cave. From there we drove to the Dhrogaroti Cave. aGAIN WE DESCENDED INTO THE Ground, 60 m below. The temp cooled down to 18 C. This two million year old cave was full of stalactites and stalagmites. Yellowish lights emitted an eery glow among the 1000m square cavern
. I was surprised to leard that classical music concerts are put on there because of the excelent acoustics. From there we drove to the supermarket, picked up soem biscuits and fruit and drove up and down the windy roads to a beach called Andisani. I later learned that this was the beach the film was filmed at. After we relaxed there and had headed back to the room, we decied to take tehe scooter across to the other side of the island to Lassi(outside of Argostoli) to mett VIc and Sean for supper and greek dancing. Witht he two of us on there and going up hill most of the way it took us 1 hour and a haldf to go 30km, haha. IT was quite funny. Anyhow it was well woth it. The dancinfg was great. ONe guy even danced with two tables balamced in his mouht, and another danced on fire rings on hte floor. Soon, they had us up dancing , taking us outside the restaurant and through the market next door. Lassi was a little too touristy for me, but it was worth it for the dancing at Zorbas. THe drive home was lovely as the full moon lit the windy road ahead of us which was moslty down hll this way, thankg goodness. The next day I walked to the market and then we scrambled up some eggs fpr breaky. WE took the scooter to Ayia Efmia, a sweet little village(supposedly a fishing village, althought there seemed to be more tourist sailboats than fishing boats) WE walked sdown some rocks off the road and had a private swim in the beautiful water. From there we drove North to Fiskardo. WE drove through tiny mountian ghost towns with rocks that bordered the yards lijke a wall
. WE stopped at one to ask for directions, IT was so sureal, these places were so quiet and isolated. AS we got closer toFiskardo, the towns got more flash, with a taverna and freshly painted homes. Supposedly after the earthquake (was actually 3, one on the 9, 10, and 11 ogf aaugust) many people left the island and moved to places like athens, made mopmney and then retured later where they rebuilt. SO, there is soem angst between those who stayed and those who left and returned later with monry. Fiskardo, although full of tourists, was delightful. Full of sailboasts and with pastel coloured buildings along the hrarbour front. WE had a lunchat a taverna a block back as the ones on the water were very expensive. WE left Fiskardo and drove down the west coast back to Sami. What a scenic ride!! Steep cliffs with scattered turqoie water bays and beaches mafde up the coast line. WE drove by the town of Assos, which clings to a small isthmus between an island and a huge hill with a ruined fort. WE decided not to go down beacuse of the risky drive back up the steep hill. WE continued in the windy road. I was torn between concentratingon the windy road and sneaking peaks at the amazing view. WE drove by a hufge beach, called Myrtos , again too steep to go tp, but incredible to see. Before Assos, roght after Fiskardo, we stoipped at two awesome beaches. THe first one had a few people, and we swam into a little cave a ways out. THe seocnd beach we went to, we had to wak down a rocky path for about a km and a half
. IT was well worth it, as there was only a small family there and it was so isolated, and agian theree was cave to see. WE got back to the rom arounfd 8pm, shpwered, washed soem clothes and headed down to the waterfont-town center, to find a tavern with a tv to watch the semi finlas for the Euro cup between GREECE and Czech Republic. The game was rather drustratign to watch, but Greece ended uup winning after playing tinto overtime! And wow, what a place the town became. Motor bikes, and scooters squeeled up the main rag with Greek flags flailing behind, some had flares lit, and there was lots of sining. Turmns out it was July 1, so I had my own mini Canada Day cemebrations indirectly. In the morning we took a ferry over to the litle island of Ithaki. Took us 40 minutes to arrive in Pisastos Bay and we scootered up the hill to the fork in the roand to Vathy or head north. We went north and saw a sign to a monastery(Moni Katharon) IT ended up being very steep and at the very top of the island. THe scooter worked very wel though and we drove through clouds, looking down at sailboats down below on the water. THe monastery seemed to be taken over by goatsm whuch were even on the roof. And there many blue eyed cats running around, which i found intriguing because blue eyes are supposedly limked to the greek superstion of the eveil eye.There was a ball tower and in the walled area(where old room , now abandoned, were and farther down was a well maintained part that now hled the residence of the present monk. In the middle was a church where I lit a candle for Collen who had passed the week before. From there we drove along hte eadst coast to Stavros where we stopped at teh beach here, which had a littel fishinf port. THen we drove south agian on teh west coast to Vathy. Vathy was lovely. Stopped at a bakery and had some loive bun. While Kylie used the internet I looked at soem sjhops. Saw a boat from Vancouver. Found a linen shop that had locally hand made shets, table cloths, etc. I bought a table runner and table cloths with the ITahki emblem on them. Then we drove t the tiny beach near by for a quick swim before we took the ferry back to Sami, Kefalonia. WE dropped off the scooter and the man lent us his car to pick up our bags at hte house and the n he dropped us off at hte ferry port where we caught a ferry to Patras. In Patras, Kylie and I headewd off to find info on trains for her and ferries for me. She was heading bacjk To
Kalo Nero in the morning and I was catching a ferry to Bari, Italy int eh evening. WE met a Rusian in our hostel, which was right across from the harbour in a lovely olf house (agian I wish hte proces of Greece could be here too) and we headed out. Kylie and I enede up getting a frappe at a cafe ont eh is street full of cafes for 3 blocks that was bursting wiht young greeks, all dressed stylish and seemed self conscious of how they looked. Thus we came to the conclusion that we would find no plavce for dancing, as they wouldnąt want to ruin their hair or get sweaty. So, after the frappe, we walked to the harbour and shared a pina colada at he harbour restauarnt. WE headed back to the hostel, but neither one of us could sleep because of the frappes we had had. WE ended up getting put of bed and heading downstairs with the intentions of playing cards r something. However the night guard invited us to sit and watch the tv with hi. Ended up playing backgammom all night, which ids the most popular game in Greece. HE was origianlly form Albania, and I spoke greek as he spkoe english to me, it was great fun for the last night oin Greece. WEnt back to bed aroufn 3am, still didnąt sleep(damn frappe) and said goodbye to Kylie and quarter to 6. I got up an hour later and had an orange ont eh steps by the harbour looking at the boats. THen I headed ot the center and did soem grocery shopping. IT was so quiet, with only construction owrkers out and a few locals. Spent the day walkign around till i caught my ferry at 8pm. THe ferry was more like a cruise ship. I was deck class, so I was on the top, 10th floor and had a plastic bench and table. Ther was a pool on the top deck as well. I was so tired from the night before that I ended up sleeping almost he whole 12 hour trip. Spoke to soem people form Britian and turkey as well. In BAri I walked to the train station with a guy from Edmonton, and a couple from Finland. Took the train to Casserta just outside Naples. Sat with two americans. The girl was so weet and burned my pictures into a cd,s o that my memory card could be emptied.In Casserta, had a 45 minute wait before the nest train to Naples. Walked down a couple streets with two britsh girls, trying to finsd a bakery, no success. LEft hem, and grabvbed a littel pizza ata kiosk type cafe. Two ameriacn guys were tehre, who i spke a few minutes with. Sat with the finnish couple on the train. Eneded up seeign the ameriacan guys agian in Naples and we went to POmpei together. Will continue with Italy later. For the mean time (I have been to Pompei, Rome for two days, and am presently in Perugia (have spent the last 3 nights there) where the jazz festival is. WEnt to Assisi two days ago, and Guobo yesterday, and at he moment am in Siena(and itąs pourng rain) will stay in Perugia tonight and then head to Florence tomorrow.
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