Keld, England, United Kingdom
Saturday, May 5, 2012
Sue and Chris met us at the Old Board Inn in the evening yesterday as we were uploading the blog. There was a super atmosphere in the bar and people were buzzing. It was super to see them both and we spent some catching up and chatting before heading back to Honeycott. Sue had very kindly made a curry for this evening as well as one of her absolutely delicious chocolate and orange cakes. It will keep us going very well during the week. Until then we have the wonderful fruit cake that Alice brought with her- yummee. She also brought a bag of jelly babies! We are so lucky to be spoiled this way. Our day today started with brilliant sunshine although it was chilly. We had the chance of a lay in as we were walking straight from the campsite to Keld, a distance of 9.6 miles along a minor road. Sue came to meet us at 9am complete with dinner and cake ready to walk. Chris had dropped her off at the top of the campsite as he was planning a cycle ride this morning which would take him down through Wensleydale, round and up through Swaledale before coming across the Buttertubs road and back to Hawes to join us this afternoon
. We said goodbye to the Roadie who was going to meet us later at Thwaite just after 9am and headed down through Hawes to join the Pennine Way at the far end of the thriving market town. There were many individual shops which included outdoor shops, a chemist, Barclays Bank, a bakers, a butchers, a rope- makers, an art gallery and the Wensleydale Creamery. Hotels and cafes lined the High St. Hawes is obviously a very busy town and very popular with walkers, bikers and those that love the Yorkshire Dales. We walked on crossing Haylands Bridge under which flowed the Ure River and headed across meadows to Hardraw, passing the Green Dragon Inn. We looked in. Mike Harding was eating breakfast and wished me good luck for the rest of the walk. Many people were floating around dressed in their finery as there was to be a wedding later in the day at the small church in the village. They certainly have good weather for this very special day. The Inn is old, flagstones line the floor, farm machinery, antlers and stuffed animals the walls. We took our leave as there was a charge to see Hardraw Force, the 30 metre waterfall, it being in private ownership and followed the footpath at the side of the Inn to Simonstone. Simonstone Hall had pride of place in the small hamlet with tremendous views back across Wensleydale to Dodd Fell. We walked on taking the road with Stags Fell high above us composed of Yoredale rock with thick bands of sandstone. Great Shunner Fell was to our left at a height of 716 metres and it had been a deliberate decision to take the lower route today bearing in mind the number of miles still to walk
. The wind was cold as we headed up towards Buttertubs, between Fossdale Moss and Lovely Seat. The Roadie passed us and wished us well as he carried on to Thwaite. We had curlews, wheatears and skylarks for company as we walked. The limestone pillars at Buttertubs showed their grey rock surface at the side of the road. An incredible area high on the hill at 478 metres which showed the effect of water travelling through rock and the erosion which this had caused. Chris appeared as we looked at the limestone pillars the other side of the rode resplendant in red and black which matched the colours of his wonderful bike. He had cycled hard up a 25% hill on his journey across to Wensleydale and was buzzing. We were so pleased he had enjoyed the morning. He cycled on and we walked down towards Thwaite. All morning cyclists, both on motorbikes and pedal cycles had been passing us. It is obviously a very popular route, one I am sure Bob and Renate would enjoy. Down the very steep ravine to the right we walked parallel to Cliff Beck. The stream very far below us was at the bottom of Muker Common in which sink holes and pot holes were in abundance. We watched as a pot-holer climbed the far side in search of a hole. We turned the corner and Swaledale opened up in front of us. It was stunningly beautiful with stone walled meadows and hay barns scattered throughout. Who should we see but the Roadie who had walked up to meet us! It was great to share the walk down into Thwaite with him. We had a few skiffs of hailstones on the way it was a super walk down. Thwaite village itself is reached by crossing a small stone bridge above Thwaite Beck. The houses are of Yorkshire stone, of mixed design, with small outhouses attached of the same stone which make them very attractive. They are huddled together in the shelter of the hills around the beck. A former chapel has been converted to a couple of holiday cottages. We stopped for coffee at the Kearton Country House Hotel and entered pure luxury
! Hot chocolate was served with a glass of hot milk, chocolate on a stick that you added yourself and came complete with marshmallows and whipped cream- delicious. The service was superb, the scones superb and the prices very reasonable. We sat in armchairs for half an hour and soaked up the comfort. We also decided that it would make a super place for a long weekend away. So we will be making a booking at a later date! Have a look at their website:
www.keartoncountryhotel.co.uk Reluctantly we put on our rucksacks and headed out the door to walk the last two miles of the day to Keld. We took the road to begin with before walking across meadows, the access being provided by small gates and gaps in the stone walls. Keld itself is a tiny hamlet at the head of Swaledale, complete with a bunkhouse (the Youth Hostel unfortunately is now closed) and small grey houses. The Roadie as ever was waiting for us and we jumped in the car for the 25 minute trip back to Hawes. It had been a super walk even though we all felt that we were cheating today because of the short distance walked. Chris meantime was sitting in the Creamery at Hawes so that is where we headed. We caught up with him drinking a well earned cuppa before sampling all of the delicious cheeses that Wensleydale has to offer. We purchased a variety to share for dinner this evening before exploring Hawes itself, looking in at the outdoor shops, the second hand book shop and the craft fair that was on today. We headed back to Honeycott to chill before writing the blog and sorting out the delicious meal that Sue had prepared. Sue and Chris arrived just after 6pm to share the evening with us. They had walked from their campsite at Bainbridge Ings to join us- lovely. The curry was superb and we follwed it with cheese and biscuits from the Creamery! Far too much but super. We headed down the pub to upload the blog. It had been another superb day. An absolute treat to walk with the Roadie and so nice to walk and talk with the support of friends. To Helen and Roy lovely to hear from you. Yes, Stewart managed to watch part of the football and glad you enjoyed your golf in shorts!! To Hanny, yes we gave our best wishes to Wallace!! ttfn
Comments
Hello Guys
I am now going to start making my hot choc that way :) yum
Have considered attempting to make you a cake and post ahead to your next site but doubt would make it through post in one piece
Have spookily bought new boots like Helen, must have inspired us both to get out and about with some half decent gear
Hichem very sad as Arsenal did not beat NORWICH!!!!! (my posts are becoming like Dads footie updates...arghhh!)
Love you guys loads, have a fab bank hol weekend and loads love to Eva and Renata xxxxxxxxxx
Amazing photos today, am loving the hot choc idea! I remember visiting Swaledale as a child on a school trip. We stayed at the yh at Grinton.