Phase 11 Day 2

Trip Start Feb 26, 2012
Trip End Jun 30, 2012

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Where I stayed
Honeycott Caravan Park Hawes

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Friday, May 4, 2012

First of all, Happy Anniversary to Jon and Fiona. Hope you have a great day. We had an early start today as we would be walking 13 miles to Hawes. Luckily the weather had been kind to Alice overnight and she came in for breakfast with a smile, warm and toasty from the tent which is pitched at the far end of the campsite through necessity, not choice! Again the sleeping bag that Helen had left was very useful- thanks Helen. With lunch prepared and breakfast eaten we headed down to Horton-in-Ribblesdale to start the walk, 12 miles away. It was a cloudy day but dry as we said goodbye to the Roadie at 9am. The hills and Pen-y-ghent looked very different today without the glorious sunshine that we had walked in yesterday. Leaving the car park we spoke to a chap from Colchester who was hoping to walk to Thwaite today across Great Shunner Fell. We wished him well. Passing a few small cottages we came across one selling home- made fudge and flapjack. The fudge won and we bought some for us and a bag for the Roadie. Away from the Crown Inn we headed along a walled 'green' road gaining height gradually until we reached Sell Gill Holes, 210ft deep. These can only be described as becks that flow into the ground through the limestone into pot holes and caves. This hole leads to a large underground cavern. We had noticed a small building with the name 'Craven Caving Club' next to the Inn in Horton and wondered where they caved! We carried on along the track protected by the stone walls either side with views of karst scenery all around us, ridges and boulders left by the glacier that had flowed south. We walked past shake holes and cavities in the moorland as we headed up Birkwith Moor before turning west towards Old Ing. We were passed by three fit young men walking the Pennine Way who wondered whether they should walk Byrness to Yetholm in one go!!! Alice has many relatives in the area around Yetholm, being a descendant of Reivers stock who knew the hills and we said we would catch up with them at the Youth Hostel in Hawes later with the maps to offer advice. We passed Calf Holes, another stream where the water went underground before heading along Sike Moor. The River Ribble was down to our left, the wide valley it flowed through being home to the Settle/Carlisle railway and the B6479. Above the valley rose Ingleborough and as we were walking we met a group walking the Three Peaks of Ingleborough, Whernside and Pen-y-ghent. They told us they were from Scarborough and this was an annual outing! They romped across the hills and away towards Ingleborough. Ling Gill was just around the corner, a small National Nature Reserve in the cleft of the hill. Cam Beck flowed into the very steep sided ravine which was protected from sheep by the sheer height of the rocks. Passing over a series of waterfalls it descends 30 metres through the ravine. It was a very special place which provided us with the chance to see wild orchids and baneberry (very small red berried bush) as well as a sea of wild primroses along the steep banks. It was home to birch, rowan, ash and bird cherry. At the top of the ravine we crossed Ling Bridge built in 1765 with the inscription ‘Anno 1765 thys bridge was repaired at the charge of the whole of West Ryding’. The bridge was desperately needed as the limestone cleft dropped away very steeply, making the beck very deep, very quickly with the added water that drained through the limestone into the beck. It was a magical place and would have made a great lunch stop but we were too early! We headed on, the north wind was a blowing and it was chilly standing around. Hats and gloves on we headed across Cam Fell to Cam End where the Dales Way and the Pennine Way meet. The track here was used by Romans and later by wool traders who called it Cam High Road. We stayed on the Roman Road continuing to climb, reaching 560 metres. Our lunch stop tucked behind a wall out of the wind gave us tremendous views across Cam Woodlands towards Pen-y-ghent. The soup was great. Dodd Fell was away to our right, rising to 668 metres as we walked on after lunch along the Old Packhorse Route to Hawes. We spoke with a young man who is walking from Aberdeen to home, in Luxembourg!!! He has taken a gap of 4 months between jobs to walk the 1500 miles. What an amazing experience he will have. We met Peter and Bridget from Bolton in Lancashire, members of the Bury Ramblers. Enjoy your walking in these lovely hills. HF has taken on a whole new meaning!!! We moved away from limestone scenery to browns and greens as we looked across Widdale Valley to our left, a mixture of deciduous and evergreen trees interspersed with a ribbon of water and pools which took the name of Snaizeholme Beck. It was very interesting to look across at the old stone walls that stretched up and down the sides of the valley in a symmetrical pattern and the small barns scattered at intervals along the sides. We carried on with rain in the breeze and waterproofs on passing a conifer plantation that was being cut down by one man and his machine! We watched as the machine cut the tree, stripped off the branches and then cut them to the size suitable to be transported by lorry, the remnants at the top being discarded and the next tree cut! It was very interesting to see how forestry operations have changed from many people to one person and a machine!  As we walked on the scenery changed again and we were looking down through Wensleydale, a magnificent Yorkshire Dale.  Gone were the high fells and in their place oblong fields, dry stone walls and meadows, with hay barns at each edge and small market towns built along the bottom of the Ure Valley. We spoke with Kathy and Graham Gosling from London who were fascinated to hear about our journey.  Graham, we hope that your knee gets better soon and you can carry on walking. The other side of the valley was Great Shunner Fell with Buttertubs Pass and Lovely Seat to its right- For tomorrow! Hawes was our stopping point for the day and we walked into Honeycott Campsite at 15.15 hrs. We had walked our 13 miles in good time. It was great to catch up with the Roadie as he had been unable to link up with us today- no access points. Our two cups of tea and fruit cake sitting in the camper out of the wind soon sorted us out. We had walked our 13 miles in good time. The Roadie had been busy today checking the opening times of the Wensleydale Cheese Dairy and local museum, as well as catching up on admin and paying the campsite fees. We are hoping to pay the Dairy a visit tomorrow afternoon as our walk to Keld is 9.2 miles on the route we have chosen to take which avoids the heights of Great Shunner Fell. Malcolm, our host is away to Fort William for a moto-cross rally. We wish him well. The photos were uploaded and the blog written before dinner as we have a trip down to The Old Board Inn and visitors this evening. Sue and Chris are heading across to walk with us for the next few days. It will be great share the days with them again.   An update on the sheep from Alice- We have seen Swaledale with horns, Blackface,  Gritstones, Blue head Leicester, Suffolk, Texal, South Country Cheviot, Hardwick and Mule(Blackface crossed with Border Leicester) Cattle breeds have been Fresian, Angus, Hereford and Highland.- Thanks Alice. We checked the Youth Hostel on our way down to the Old Board Inn and left a message. Our thanks must also go to Helen, landlady at the Old Board Inn in the centre of Hawes for  her interest in our journey. She is a very gregarious lady who has made us extremely welcome. The atmosphere in the Inn is super,a warm log fire burns in the grate and the food is delicious. We would thoroughly recommend a visit. Have a look at their website To Eva, our love and we love your comments every day. To Hannah, we will try to source McArthurs Paw Paw cream via Alice as her son lives in Australia. To Claire and Ian- keep us in the loop re Belgium. To Jen and Hichem- we are eating loads of yummee cake- lovely to hear from you both. Glad that you are enjoying the blog. We send you our love as always.
Slideshow Report as Spam


Hanny on

say hello to Wallace for me x

Hanny on

say hello to Wallace for me!

helentodd on

Hello walkers & roadie! We've had a busy few days but have still found time to read your blogs even if we haven't made comments each day - we are still following you all!! Wow, what amazing scenery you are walking through, truely stunning and so nice to walk in clear weather... I took a trip up to Tiso yesterday and purchased myself some brand new walking boots! Just got to get them worn in a bit before I join you again in a few weeks. We have a clear sky & sunny start to the day, so are about to take Brodie out for a walk and I am playing golf later. So TTFN from the Todd's - love to all x x x

roytodd on

Thursday morning was overcast and cool but that did not put me off heading to Melrose golf course. The bacon sandwich and coffee on arrival was the highlight! But then...
The sun came out and we had the most glorious hot sunny afternoon. Out came the shorts and off went texts to family and friends who still had their wellies on down south. We do occasionally have good weather in Scotland.
The sun stayed out and we were able to enjoy supper sipping ice cold drinks. Friday - back to normal and I went off to lunch with my overcoat and scarf on!!
And one more thing - whoever heard of the FA Cup final kicking off at 5.15pm? Could it be that this is to allow Stewart to watch?

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