Whoa here comes a big one...
Trip Start
Nov 16, 2008
1
Trip End
Feb 15, 2009
Haleiwa, Hawaii
Friday, May 15, 2009
I've always defined myself as a tropical creature, I belong at the beach and I am happiest when I'm in the ocean. However, too many near-drownings as a child, blue-bottle stings and the S word, kept me from trying what I'd loved to admire others do in Australian waters.
Surfing for the first time on the North shore of Oahu in winter with a sea turtle at a spot rightfully called left-overs was more than a dream come true. It was an initiation, one I had been preparing for my entire life...
Fast forward a few days. I'm in Cabin 8 and a beautiful, bronzed, blond comes to stay. We make eye contact, she's seen me before. I remember seeing her after being caught in front of a really big set. I laughed as I paddled back out. She said you're the girl I saw out surfing, that set came out of nowhere, I heard you laughing, that was the right attitude to have.
With her as my witness, I'd finally done it. And what a better place...
