Nevada de Ruiz: We came, we saw, we climbed
Trip Start
Jan 15, 2010
1
84
94
Trip End
Jul 30, 2010
Manizales, Colombia
Thursday, June 10, 2010
The Nevada de Ruiz is the last volcano in the Andes region and its peak sits at 5400mt above sea level. The centre of Manizales is already 2,150 meters ASL so by the end of the day we would have ascended another 3,025 meters to the glacier but not the summit (another 225mts). We'd need to be fuelled with air tanks to get to the top.
We woke early and jumped into the mini-bus to find out that the guide did not speak English, as per requested, therefore our excellent Spanish skills would be needed to get by. The guide explained to us all that we would be increasing in altitude significantly through the day and that there would be a need to make numerous stops to allow our bodies to acclimatise. Firstly, the driver made everyone open the windows to allow air to enter as this assisted in the process. Some people however closed the windows, because it was cold, yeah cause a little altitude sickness is nothing to worry about.
The mini-van drove through the town and out into the 'burbs’ on our way to the national park. Our first stop was for breakfast at 3,000 meters where we had very typical fare of ‘chocolate calliante’ (hot) and ariquipa (a somewhat tasteless corn bread).
Once the food had been finished we headed off and once more made a pit stop at the Black Lagoon, at around 3,500m meters. We were all offered a coca-tea to help the headaches and discovered that it was delicious. The lagoon was not much to look at, compared to all the other lagoons we’ve already seen, but had been part of the glacier that had stretched from the peak of the volcano, where we were going to walk to.
At 4,000m we entered the park and picked up our park guide. Once more our Spanish skills were going to be put to use. A park guide is mandatory, and necessary, due to the height that everyone ascends too and the guides are prepared for all situations. Our guide explained that we had two more necessary stops on the way up to the trail head for acclimatisation purposes. At this altitude there is about 66% of the oxygen concentration of sea level so breathing had started to become a little laboured. Especially when we did our standard ‘jump’ photos, both of us were dizzy and could feel the blood thumping in our heads.
At 4,800 we reached the refugio where the mini-van finished its role, leaving us to ours. After a quick stretch and another coca-tea, we were off.
It was explained that we were to essentially walk ‘suave’ or smoothly, this was demonstrated to those without Spanish skills. We had to ensure that we stopped, put one foot forward, lean on our knee and breathe deeply through the nose and out the mouth every 15 meters ascended.
The first section was not that hard and we reached the 4,850 meter mark pretty quickly. There was a slight pain starting in my head, I could feel my heart thumping wildly and my lungs wanted more air. It was a lot hotter than we all expected and soon everyone had stripped down to t-shirts, our arms were piled up with cold weather gear. It was annoying to carry, and thankfully we abandon the gear at one of the rest points at 4,900 meters. After a short break, more water and deep breathing along with a pray that our gear would be there when we returned we pushed forth for the final 250 meters to the top.
At this altitude it would take 8 minutes and 5 seconds to boil an egg with the air being so thin. This is where it became a struggle. It was like we were breathing through a straw and the need to stop became more frequent. Each step became a considered one and more so since snow had started to encroach on the earth, sections were damp and muddy. Our footing choices were snow, loose skree or slippery wet mud.
After what seemed a long time, but in reality was about 15 minutes, we hit the top. We had reached 5,150 meters where there was 50% oxygen concentration and our lungs and legs were burning, but it was an amazing and exhilarating feeling. We had made it!
Where we stood was the end of the glacier, and it was hard to imagine that the glacier had once covered the mountain that we had ascended. Looking around we could see footsteps of those who were braver (and air fulled) and who had ascended to the peak of the Ruiz. Their footsteps disappeared in the distance, up the side of the mountain and past the clouds.
The descent was much easier and at stages we were able to run and slide down the scree. After we had driven back down the mountain we headed for a nourishing lunch and then to some hot springs where we rested our sore muscles and bones in water that had a high PH level and tepid disposition.
Later that night, we were exhausted. We had slight sunburn, sore muscles and headaches to match. However, it was a day that we totally recommend, just as Lewis had recommended the trip to us.
