10 Days in Honduras
Trip Start Jan 12, 2007
29Trip End Nov 19, 2007
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Where I stayed
After 2 days in Copan we headed out to the Caribbean coast to the town of Ceiba, where we left the van at a hotel run by a Quebecois family and ferried to Utila, which is the closest of Honduras' three "Bay Islands".
Utila is to Honduras what Caye Caulker is to Belize, a small, backpacker friendly Caribbean island about an hour off the mainland
The ferry off Utila departs at 6:20 am and taking full advantage of the early start, we made it to the Lago (lake) de Yojoa region in north central Honduras. We camped close to the lake at a resort/farm called Finca Los Glorias, which felt like a Honduran Harrison Hot Springs - a little tired around the edges but still holding an appeal to us middle-class folk.
From Lago de Yojoa, we took 2 nights to get to the border with Nicaragua, staying the second night in Yuscaran, a town that has been declared a national monument by the Honduran government despite (or maybe because of) having only about 2,000 people and being in the middle of nowhere
-Continued cool temperatures: Much of central Honduras, including Copan, Lago Yojoa and Yuscaran, are at higher elevations, which has made the temperature so much more bearable.
-We weren't expecting much from Copan other than its proximity to the ruins but it turned out to be a picturesque little town with a quiet confidence in itself and the afternoon rains brought a dark, smoky feeling, making it feel like a late October day in Vancouver.
-Jimīs Pizza, Copan: Weīre glad Jim decided to relocate from the States to Copan, because he had the best pizza yet on the trip, a generator to use when the rain storm knocked out everyone else's power, and he was the first server since San Diego to provide the 2 minute `quality check`. The only thing we didnīt like about Jim is that, somehwat confusingly, he called his vegetarian pizza "The Italian".
-The duty free store, Copan: Great prices such as decent Chilean wine for $3
-Trading a forgettable book about Denzal Washington straight up for Lonely Planetīs guide to Guatemala: It didn't take quite the moxy of the guy who traded a paperclip for a house in Kipling, Saskatchewan but a major fear for us given our need for maps (see below).
-The fridge: This is a tired story by now but, after using every trick we have learned over the past 5 months, we managed to re-light the damn thing on like the 22nd try, buying ourselves another 2 weeks or so of cheap breakfasts.
-Yuscaran: It is perched on the side of a mountain, and has rough cobblestone streets and a little plaza full of palm and pine trees and Honduran cowboys. Hollywood couldn't have created a more perfect movie set for a western movie. And it was the type of place where everybody gave us a cheery "buena dias" when we walked by and escorted us to our destination when we asked for directions.
-The entrance fees to tourist sights: We almost choked in our coffee when we had to dig deep for the $15 entrance fee at Copan ruins that didnīt include the on-site museum (another $10 )...Yes, they are ancient ruins but they ainīt no Disneyland.
-The ferry ride to Utila: Pretty much the most harrowing boat ride either of us have ever been on
-Honduran drivers: In some ways driving in Central America is actually easier than it is in Mexico because there are far fewer vehicles on the roads and the vehicles that are on the roads tend to be in better shape. However, as was hammered home to us on a windy, hilly drive through central Honduras, every 2-lane highway has an amorphous/ambiguous 3rd lane straight up the middle that anyone can use at any time.
-Honduran Spanish: We have had to start at the beginning again, as our tried and tested phrases no longer work for us. Hondurans speak Spanish as if their mouths are full of marbles.
-No maps of cities: We didn't think this one through and only brought one guide book for all of Central America, rather than one for each country. This has left us at the distinct disadvantage of not having a map of most of the cities we go in to. This has tested the team members ability to be nice to one another as we drive around aimlessly for half an hour before getting our bearings.