North to the (paradoxically warm) Arctic Circle
Trip Start Apr 14, 2010
96Trip End Apr 16, 2011
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Where I stayed
Our primary destination was the incredible Lofoten Islands (we hadn't heard of them either ) a set of rocky islands that stick up out of the Arctic sea like something out of Middle Earth (minus the spewing volcanoes, all-seeing giant eye and bands of Orcs) which we reached by ferry from Bod°. We found ourselves a traditional "rorbuer" (red fisherman’s hut by the sea) in the tourist village of ┼ (no typo that is the name of the place- one letter), just along the coast from a place called Hell (also no typo).
On our first evening we lucked out when we bumped into some German fishing tourists who had caught too much cod and sold us for a nominal fee about 2kg of fillets which kept all 4 of us going for food for two nights and away from the only restaurant in the village called “YouAreACaptiveAudienceSoWeWillChargeWhatWeLike”
The next day we headed off on an ambitious hike over the vertical looking mountain to the other side of the island and, being stubborn types, declined to turn back from the mountain top with Nick and Ann but headed down the other side. By the time we reached (via a short, cold and wet Arctic squall) the other side (there wasn’t much there) we were exhausted but had the same hike we had just done to complete in reverse.... we slept well that night.
Our last day with Nick and Ann saw us in the Lofoten “capital” of Svolvaer. We had had grand ideas of going mountain climbing here, but our complaining muscles from the previous day meant this was canned. Instead, we visited theTrollfjord (100m wide with 1000m mountains rearing up) and an interesting War Museum and spent our last night with Nick and Ann having a lovely dinner (finally sampling the dried cod that had been hanging around on racks everywhere giving the islands- an interesting fragrance).
Looking forward now to heading towards Finland and hopefully both some more darkness and affordable alcohol!