New Zealand week one
Trip Start
Sep 21, 2010
1
14
Trip End
Jun 13, 2011
Auckland, North Island, New Zealand
Monday, April 18, 2011
From Sydney to Auckland
As I flew out of Sydney, I took one last look of the beautiful city. And then I put on the "Kings speech". I forgot how nice Qantas is compared to the bargain airlines I've been flying- a full lunch, the personal computer and a view. I flew into Auckland with a feeling of astonishment: I'm here! Getting into the country was a breeze and they just briefly checked my hiking shoes. I grabbed a vodaphone sim card, took out $500 cash and grabbed the shuttle bus to town. The German girl who shared the bus with me reminded me to always ask if there is a student or backpacker rate.
I fell for a sign that stated the hostel offers free Internet and $21 beds. At 9pm, they had a poker tournament. I won one hand but was the second person out; I haven't played for years. The rest of the night was spent online updating my pictures and chatting.
Pig in shit
On Tuesday, I decided to book a bus tour that took me everywhere I was planning on going, with a caves tour an welington tour included. Although I had my heart (not my nerves though) set on hitchhiking, Regina said she would give it a go with me when we got to Picton. I strolled over to Kathmandu to find they are having a huge 60% Easter sale. 60% off plus another 30% off with the exchange rate?! I'm in trouble! The blatantly gay and flirtatious manager took my number and told me to come back later since he was going to pick up the tent from another store I had my heart set on. As I walked through the city, I discovered the centrally located casino with $10 blackjack tables: dangerous. I ended up winning big on the perfect pair side bet (2 colored 7s) so I took my money and ran. I grabbed a chicken and cheese pancake at a unique and inexpensive Japanese pancake stall that heather's friend recommended. I stopped at Kathmandu again to buy my 1-man tent ($125, 60% off), sleep pad ($47, 60% off), thermal shirts and long johns (3 for 80), sink plug, poncho , and camping soap (all 50% off). I was giving a free membership since I'm a "student" and a $20 gift voucher. I love discount camping shopping! Later that night, I ended up winning more at the casino and treated myself to the $33 buffet. After cramming down four plates of oysters, new zealand mussels, shrimp, braised ribs, desserts, milk, and ice cream, I was truly happier than a pig in shit. Oh yea, the $380 I won in blackjack today wasn't bad either.
Jamie
Heather's friend from graduate school moved here in November because his wife had gotten a job offer. Heather is planning on coming here to visit when I'm back in Auckland May 14th so she asked Jamie if I could keep my suitcase there while I travel. At 4:30 I took the train from downtown Auckland to Glenn Inness to meet him after he got off work. A train manager comes around so you can buy your ticket on the train (inefficient yet convenient). Jamie seems like a typical librarian and American if I could imagine one. With his occasional big word use, very helpful and friendly, and his broad variety of interests, I could tell why Jmaie and Heather were friends. We walked to his house after stopping to pick up some beer. I politely declined the beer as I only have 12 left of no drinking but accepted his legal marijuana. I didn't feel much until he said screw the legal stuff and we went for the good stuff ;-).
Jamie had me try the fruit off his neighbors Feijoa tree. It was a sweet fruit similar to a kiwi but phenotypical to a lime. After showing me around the house to his collections of still boxed up collectables and a great conversation with a fellow American, we set off back to the train station.
Glow worms
I was out of the hostel by 7am and on the road by 7:30 am. The bus driver was also a tour guide who mentioned some interesting facts on Auckland. Besides the city being poorly planned, aucklanders sit in traffic for the love of their single occupancy vehicles. Only 16% take alternative transportation but there commutes are also shorter. We were on the windy road to waitimo for 2.5 hours and had exactly one hour to do the waitimo caves tour; the bus had to get people onto rotorua and their next destinations as well. The cave was pretty cool, including the cathedral where he asked someone to sing (I couldn't think of a song!) we saw up close the 20 silk strands each glow worm throws down and then took a boat through the rest of the cave. The boat ride reminded me of a ride through Disney world or someones room with way too many glow stars. In the caves gift shop I used the tester lotions to lather myself up (a backpacker trip if I ever knew one). I then walked to the cheap accommodation I had seen in my guidebook since the info center said $21 was the cheapest rate around for tent sites.
The Tomo group lodge was deserted when I arrived but a call to the warden explained I could just pay the day rate of $4 to pitch my tent. After setting up all my new camping gear, I took a nap in my cool one man tent. Afterwards, I met Stan who is a TGL caretaker. He recommended where to put my tent since a school group was coming later and where I should go hike. He had me walk through cow and sheep fields down to a track that led to a national park. He said I should do the walk twice: one during the day to see the great scenery and once at night to see the glow worms. I followed his advice and was pleased all the way around. I had considered abseiling so I could see more glow worms and caves but the double hike was free and serene. I had no problem finding my way and was by myself on the track almost the whole time. Being surrounded by the sound of a waterfall, hundreds of glowing dots, and the moon shining down on me while I hiked in the dark listening to Enya was one of the most calm and cool experiences of my life.
Back at the lodge, I also met Stan's partner, Lea, who is from the Czech Republic. She was very nice to talk to while we made dinner and even offered me some of her salad. After returning from the night hike, Stan gave me good advice on how to save money tramping and how to hike Tangariro national park. He basically encouraged me to camp in random spots and not follow the pricing rules unless you get caught by the warden (then u pay full price plus $4)
Ogo
Today I woke to the sound of a garner herding his cows... Yep I'm still in New Zealand. I was really cold at night and finally had to wear all my thermals, my hat, and be completely mummified in the sleeping bag before I got rest. I remember looking outside to see there wasn't frost on the ground and my mat is quite thick so I must just have thin blood at the moment. Oz has made me a wuss! I ended up having to hurry out of the lodge and was alone, so the school group never ended up coming. I got to the bus and made a nice middle aged lady friend immediately who then gave me her chocolate cake. Score. The bus ride was filled with useless facts of the beautiful sights we passed through on our way to Rotorua, so listened to Josh Groban instead. In fact, I wouldve listened had I understood a word the Kiwi was saying (I liked the last bus driver). When I got off, the bid drover couldn't believe that A. There was a spot in town that let you pitch your tent B. That I would sleep in a tent when it was this cold (again, no frost) and C. Wondered why I just pay a couple extra dollars to stay in a hostel. I finally stopped answering his condescending questions which he then replied, "fine I guess I'll stop asking you questions". Fine by me.
The place was better than expected: A motel style resort with a thermally heated pool, bar, kitchen, lounge and pool table, and funny staff to boot. After I set up my tent, I came back to find the receptionist taking two girls to the nearby zorb ride and then hiking to the redwoods. Caroline, age 21, studying in Christchurch (now Auckland) had her sister come visit for two weeks. Katie, age 25, sales director in Manhattan, was full of great stories herself. They are originally from Maine and we spent the whole afternoon together. Our first stop was the Zorbs, now called Ogos, because they're bigger. For 3 in a ball with hot water, it was $35 pp. Here we come!! It was a blast and yes I'll only do it once, but I'm glad I did it and with other people. You don't topple over because the water keeps you stationary, or at least I think. It was a whirlwind.we then drove by the coast of Lake Rotorua and got a tour of the area.
The receptionist was a pistol. She had roa rage and a mouth of a truck driver. Yet she had no problem dropping us off at the redwoods while we took an hour stroll through....Cali? We swore we were in California with the ferns (bigger) and redwood trees (smaller). Katie and Caroline were very nice and easily amused. I have already hiked in some gorgeous spots and recently so Katie gawking at a swamp made me laugh. We chatted about sororities, traveling, work, and weddings.
The receptionist picked us up and dropped us at the Rotorua Thursday night markets which was excellent. Katie and Caroline got practically drunk off an old man selling his home made wines including blueberry, strawberry, plum, etc. I resisted the free sample but bought one for Wellington. We also bought the receptionist a bottle for the ride and called it a Kohu, which is a Maori word for giving something back in exchange. I think I may have another 31 days of this no drinking but I'll be able to drink free samples but won't be able to purchase anything ;-). It's hard turning down free alcohol which I've done at least 6 times. I also bought a chicken stick, fruit punch, a cookie cake and a delicious sausage Kransky at the market.
After departing from the gals (they had a traditional Maori dinner to go to), I walked around Rotorua to find that the stores closed but the big box shops were open. I bought groceries at "paknsave" and headed back to the motel. On my way back, I was honked at while crossing an interaction. I flicked him off and told him to "piss off", and unfortunate saying I've picked up, which probably wasn't the best idea. He came back around twice more to harass me. I just don't get how people have the nerve to honk the horn at you when you're in the middle of crossing an intersection, white lines or not. I realize I'm in a foreign country that has it's own rules, but it seems backwards to me that someone will happily pull you over to give you a ride but harass the person in front of them for cross the street. The receptionist even honked at someone and the man gave an apologetic look and ran out of the way. Whatever.
I spent my evening in the motel thermal pool talking to 3 English backpackers. They had very interesting stories and yet again, the one girl encouraged me to hitch hike. I will make a point in doing this.
Roaming Rotorua
On Friday, I walked around the town of Rotorua contemplating if I should do any of the Maori cultural experiences. I concluded ill get enough culture passively and don't need to spend $88.00 for a traditional dinner in a village with song and dance. I did, however, decide to buy a very nice sheep skin and ship it to Minnesota. It was the same price to ship it there then it was to buy it out of the store because I didnt have to pay the 15% tax. I also got a pot set (60% off), sleeping bag liner (warmer and keeps the bag clean, 50% off), and careener for free. I walked around the hot springs and the lake before heading back to the motel. I jumped into the pool again to meet a North Carolina backpacker with an expensive camera, great photos, and distasteful personality, and a decent bloke from Wales. The motel was overrun with Kiwi teenagers on school trips.
Katie and Caroline texted me to meet them at the car for a glass of wine (bar). I ended up breaking my drinking rule and we drank 2.5 bottles of too- sweet wine while chatting and playing card games. Katie, my age, gave me some great ideas for parties when I get home including an anything but clothes party and a wine party. At the wine party, everyone brings two bottles of wine: one to share and one for the prize. The wines are covered up and you rate each wine depending on taste 1-10. The person who brought the wine with the highest amount of points wins all the other bottles. The trick is to grab a good tasting wine that doesn't cost a lot.
I digress. We decided to go to the Kava Bar because the motel bar closed. I tell you these girls have charm. We got in no cover and then had the bartender pouring us free shots (they were awful but free and Kiwi flavored). We danced like it was 1999 until bad music came on. We kept trying to bum a real cigarette but people kept nicely giving us their rolled tobacco ones. We also had to teach Caroline how rounds worked, poor thing. She may have just been drunk and she highly prefers pot. We closed the bar and I ended up sleeping in their room on the floor.
Rainy hangover
When I woke up, I remembered why I had given up drinking. I slept jn and finally showered in the girls shower while they went rafting. I packed up my stuff, said my goodbyes, and had to run to the bus stop because I can't manage my time. I'm starting to learn how overpacking really slows you down!
I got to rainy Taupo to find the YHA tent sites were $18 (she finally gave me the $15 YHA member rate), there was no hot tub because someone broke it, and no Tongariro hiking for the next 2 days because of the weather. On the bright side, that was the worst of it. I got to use the pin-door lodge because my tent was next to it instead of the rest of the communal areas that the backpackers use. The lodge is for tenters and when they are busy, they'll put couples there. It had a kitchen, bathrooms, tv lounge, movies and games; I would have paid a lot more than $15/night for this place. There was only one other lady who told me I should his sleep on the couch instead of outside since we were the only two here. I shut the blinds, turned on the heater, order 3 large dominos pizzas (it was cheaper than ordering 1 for some reason), and had a VHS movie marathon: "Trapped", "Groundhogs Day", "Man of Fire", and "the Hole". The Hole freaked me out. And I watched two movies where Dakota fanning gets kidnapped. It was a perfect way to spend a rainy hangover day. I eventually retired to my tent.
Skydive
The next day, I causally rolled out of my tent to eat more pizza. I realized the weather was actually great and I should seize the day by calling Taupo Skydive: they'd be there in 5 minutes. Score! When I got in, my seatbelt didn't work. Maybe I shouldve taken this for a bad omen but I don't really believe in fate or signs (knock on wood). I sat down next to a girl who backed out after some jackass tried to calm her down by saying, "you'll die of a heart attack before you hit the ground". We all chose the cheap 12,000 foot option with no pica or DVD, much to the companies dismay. I ended up with a group of Americans, all of who went to school in Santa Barbara California, grabbed a working holiday visa and moved to Bondi Beach Sydney. The guy who's girlfriend backed out, Mike, was gorgeous. Can I strap myself to him?? After watching another group come down, we met our guys and squeezed into the tiny yellow plane. My guy, Ian, showed me when we were at 1500 feet (still 10500 to go), and answered most of my questions.
As soon as the plane leveled out, there were less people on the plane than when we went up with. I had to hold onto my straps until he tapped my shoulder, tuck my feet under the plane when we got to the door, turn to the left and smile at the camera. This is where I wanted to shit myself. We went out and I HATED the falling feeling. I opened my eyes as soon as I felt like I was floating which was awesome. We fell for about 30 seconds and it was quite chilly! There were clouds but I could still see Lake Taupo and the surrounding hills. Supposedly you can see the ocean on a clear day at 15,000 even though we're in the middle of the island. He finally pulled the rip cord to a hang glide position where I thought I'd find relief. Where I found a mental relief of not free-falling towards earth, I started a 10 minute agony of ball crushing. Somehow, my crotch strap on the right side did me in for physical pain I haven't felt for a long time. The views were absolutely amazing, but I could hardly see straight I was in so much pain. I was unfortunately glad to hit the ground. Hmm, jumpsuit, adrenaline, pain....reminded me of paint balling. I paid $25 for my exit photo, to remind me of that awful feeling I had as I faked smiled, so I'd never do it again.... Although I probably will ;-).
When I got dropped back into town, I ended up talking to Pam, the other girl in the lodge with me. She is very nice and intelligent and from Quebec. She was trying to figure out how to go about doing the Tongariro great walk and has a car and offered to take me with her on Monday (tomorrow)- SCORE. After making some tentative plans, I went shopping and grabbed a $10 new Zealand cap and a $40 waterproof/windproof fleece. I then walked to the local free hot springs park that ran into the river. The walk was nice, despite me getting lost for a bit, due to the beautiful trees. It's peak season in the changing of colors of the trees. As I haven't had a fall in over a year, I lapped it up (not the hot spring water, the views). Upon my return at the lodge, I ate more pizza, had a great conversation with Pam and three other older travelers from the UK, and watched "Point Break". The movie was very fitting for the day, as Keenau Reeves and Patrick Swayze skydive twice in the movie.
Money money money
Even through all my efforts, I'm having a hard time following a budget. There is so much to do and see; New Zealand is my dream trip. I believe if I'm truly enjoying myself and not packing too much in, I should do what I want to do. I still believe I should look for the cheapest accomdation, food and transport and not drink, but so I can spend money on amazing, hopefully not too commercialized and crowded, experiences.
