Bangkok: Old town, new friend!
Trip Start
Nov 24, 2004
1
Trip End
Dec 29, 2004
Bangkok, Thailand
Friday, November 26, 2004
Flying into Bangkok a few days ago as the sun rose, which was trying to cast its light through the brown haze that constantly hovers over the city, I felt like I could have been straight back in china. The smell that hits you as soon as you step outside in these countries is intoxicating (and for a few hours, a bit nauseating till you get used to it) and it reminded me of the first time I went to Beijing. A smell that seems to come mixed with feelings of exhaustion, sudden physical pangs of homesickness, a bit of fear, curiosity, determination and most of all exhilaration. Even though I wasn't in Beijing I couldn't wipe the smile off my face as I slipped straight back into travel talk with a guy on the bus into town.
It was a bit different once I got into Kaosan (backpacker central of BK) though. The place hasn't changed too much in a year and there were so many memories of last time that are wonderful but a bit painful without those that I share them with here...funny how experiences are shaped mostly by the people you meet. That was the case here anyway.
Jolien a friend from uni had arrived the night before and had managed to book us into exactly the same room of the same hostel we were in last time...coincidence?!!! Pad Thai (fried noodles) and mango shakes beckoned us out into the now, sweltering heat (and it was only 10am!) of Kaosan road. After a couple of hours traipsing up and down possibly the most well known and frequented street by backpackers in Asia, where you can get everything from fake birkenstocks, fake dreads, fake id (reubs ?send me an id photo of you) to real watermelon, real 30 cent cocktails (real?...lots of Thai whisky that's for sure!) and real copies of adidas crap, I needed a nap!
That evening was the Loy Krong festival, which is when the Thai people thank the river for the life it brings them. There was a huge festival down by the river with music on different stages, parades, Thai boxing and dancing. By the banks, everyone was placing offerings (a piece of styrofoam with banana leaf sculptures, flowers, candles and incense on them) into the water. One girl told me to put bits of my nails and hair as well as some coins in it to for good luck. The wind managed to blow most of the candles out, but it was still fantastic to see these amasing sculptures bobbing in the waves created by massive boats decked out like floats at the Christmas parade in Adelaide that were chugging in procession down the river. It seemed really good that there is a consciousness of the life giving qualities of water here and that there should be an appreciation for it (maybe we need one of these festivals in Australia every day). It's certainly reminded me not to take so long in the shower!) but I didn't see how thousands of bits of styrofoam clogging up the river was much of a sign of appreciation of it! Then again, it's the thought that counts. But I am still thinking of how to design an environmentally friendly offering that's made from recycled, sustainable resources...
We spent the following morning tearing around Bangkok in a tuk-tuk with a driver that had to lean right over the wheel to see through his windscreen. For once the agreed price for this pleasure was DECREASED as the day went on, but only because we agreed to go 'shopping' in clothing boutiques and jewelry shops that the driver guided us into. He explained that if we went and had just a look around for a few minutes, he'd get petrol coupons from the owners. I can see why this could get irritating after three different shops (and a couple of brief stops at temples!) but as the driver kept reminding us this made 'you happy, me happy, we all happy'!
Later that evening, we were walking down the road when an 'ambulance' pulled up to a guy who'd had his throat cut a few metres away from us. I'm pretty sure it was an accident because he was still conscious and was probably going to be ok. The ambulance consisted of a ute with nothing but a stretcher and about 12 paramedics crammed onto the tray. They were extremely efficient and were driving away within minutes, but it was lucky the guy was pretty much ok, because there was no equipment in the back. Made me think twice every time I crossed the road that's for sure...!
We spent the next few days in Kanchanaburi, near the bridge over the river Kuai but I'm gonna need about 4 hours to write that story I reckon...hold your breath for the next installment. Actually, don't cos it probably won't be for a few more weeks. I'm going to Myanmar in about 2 hours and apparently there isn't much internet access there, so it'll be a while before the next installment.
In the mean time, have a great Christmas/Hannukah and a happy new year!!!
