Going to Pamplona

  Pamplona, Spain
Saturday, June 12, 2004

I don't at this time have any photos of Pamplona but a couple taken in the hills between Larrasoana and the plain on which Pamplona sits . It is in the Spanish district of Navarra. It's well known for it's vineyards and wine.

The walk to Pamplona was about 20K and then we (Valentine and I) walked maybe another 5K in Pamplona just sightseeing. Hadn't had anything to eat but bread, coffee, sardines, coke and a banana all day. I told Valentine what my plans were re. calling the Leatherwoods. I felt sad and a bit guilty leaving her as we had found a quick attachment and comfort in walking together. It seems this is the Camino way. She was okay with this, having her own plans and the attitude that most peregrinos seem to have, i.e. to take what comes and "go with the flow". She went off to find the Refugio here which is in a large former monestery attached to a famous (at least to some) old church/cathedral.

It's two days after leaving Larrasoana. I'm at Dan and Lisa Leatherwood's. They live in Artijona, a very old town, Roman vintage, 40K's south of Pamplona. Their house is at least 500 years old - three foot thick stone and adobe walls behind a large wooden gate and cobble paved courtyard. Looking out from the elevation of the town the view is of hills and valleys cultivated in fields of hay which is now cut, vineyards just below and across the way. Another village or two, each with their own church pointing heavenward at the top of the hill the surrounding town is built on, just as is Artijona. This is 1200-1500 AD vintage.

They have been fixing it up over the past 4 years since they bought it (I think they've been in Spain longer). Today I helped Dan put up some paneling on the ceiling in a third floor room that will be his office and will also be where guests that are coming will sleep. The guests are from the church back in the U.S. which is supporting their missionary work. They are "born-again" Christians who have a small ministry and church in Pamplona. They teach English to Spanish students of various ages and in surrounding towns as well as Artijona and Pamplona and Dan does a church service in Pamplona and sometimes in their home.

When we met in Segovia they gave me their phone number. So, when I reached Pamplona, I just went with their invitation. I did, standing at a phone booth on the main square (or at least a large one) where I'm told Ernest Hemingway hung out, perhaps at the very barre that I'm now standing in front of. The process of using a Spanish speaking phone system is an adventure in itself.

Luckily, they were at home and agreed right away to come up from where they live and meet me. We managed to sort out where I was so they could find me and it turns out that it was an easy place to get to. The walk to Pamplona from Larrasona had been about 20K When the Leatherwoods arrived we walked maybe another 5K sightseeing. We visited the old city walls and fortress, more cathedrals, and the street where the world sees the "running of the bulls" (I learned later that at various times throughout Spain, many cities have this tradition which is part of the town's celebration the patron saint's birthday). Hadn't had anything to eat but bread, coffee, sardines, coke and a banana so far that day. The Leatherwoods decided to treat themselves Burger King! and I have to admit, it felt just like that - a treat for us kids. (By the way, "we" consisted Dan and Lisa, their 4 kids including an infant, and an nanny from the States named Stella, a widow who works with an organization in the U.S. that provides nanny service to people who are doing service work around the states and the world, free). Eventually, we made our way out of the city driving south to Artajona where they live.