Day of the Dead Weekend

Trip Start Oct 30, 2008
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Trip End Nov 01, 2008


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Where I stayed
Marcia's House

Flag of Mexico  , Central Mexico and Gulf Coast,
Saturday, November 1, 2008

One thing about adobe, it keeps the cold night air in. In the morning we happily crawled out from our mountain of covers in the chilly walled in air and out into the warm and sunny courtyard. We made pots of Mexican mountain grown coffee and ate hash browns, eggs, avocados and a fine selection of colorful veggies picked up from the little outdoor market up the hill. We also managed to secure the next door neighbor who works as a cab driver to take us out to the cemeteries for the festivities going on later that night.

I'm a really fast walker and wanted to cover a lot of ground so I took off on my own after breakfast to try to see how much of the town I remembered and what new things I could find to explore. A nice thing about the festivities is that artisans from all over Michoacan come to Patzcuaro, you can find anything you'd ever want and so much more that you'll never need, but is it's fun (I ended up reluctantly gifting my niece with a chicken pecking rice game that I had uncovered in the market- should've gotten two!)

We met up later on trying to find a swanky courtyard with a view of the lake to have drinks at...didn't quite pan out but we were in time for the blessing of the ponies at the large catholic church high up on the hill- there must have been hundreds of ponies of their cowboys in that church yard. We'd end up stopping after the ceremony to have drinks at  "cha cha cha"- American owned but nice none the less.

About 9PM we got into the neighbor's cab and drove out to Tzintzuntzan. I think we were about the only gringos out there, the air was cool, candles were lit, kids were playing and laughing while their families sat watching them, parked for the night at the graves of their deceased loved ones. We drank vanilla atole and passed out toys that we had brought from home to the kids milling around the graves (spider rings, balls, rubber bats). It was easily the most beautiful vigil I've witnessed as of yet. We  went to one more town where the cemetery was split in two by a busy road and there was a huge artisan's market, daiquiri booths and general mayhem...not nearly as nice at Tzintzuntzan. I wouldn't have dared to go to the lake island of Janitzio after seeing the last place, the night club atmosphere took away from what we had discovered DOTD to be about after visiting the first spot.

We tried again that night to find a watering hole, either finding a techno crazed crowd, no available seats, or a cover charge to sit in something resembling a cold basement - yuck. Wait, don't we have a beautiful rooftop we can be hanging out at and watching the stars? Yes- and we're off going back down the 10 minute hill.
 
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