The Silver Mines
Trip Start
Aug 16, 2008
1
17
29
Trip End
Dec 22, 2008
Potosi, Bolivia
Wednesday, October 15, 2008
We did a diferent tour to most. It was recommended to us from two Swiss guys we met at the Salt Flats as the real authentic experience, and it certainly was. We set off at 2pm, got changed into our mining gear and visited the miners market to buy them gifts, as is the custom. We bought them dynamite, alcohol (they drink this 96% stuff, 1 lt for E1), cigerettes, coca leaves (chewed by the miners to keep them alert and suprese their appetite) and some fizzy drinks.
Our guide used to be a miner himself and goes to a mine that no other tourist go. He knew all the miners and translates everything said into English for us. We started off running through the mine very fast. The ceiling is very low so it wasnīt easy. We climbed down a shaft and saw dynamite being packed into a wall (unusual for tourist to see apparantly). Then we had to move fast to be far away when the explosian went off. We climbed down two further mine shafts to reach another groups of miners who were sorting metals. I think the three of us were in agreemant that climbing these shafts was the scariest thing we done in our lives. The guide doesnīt normally bring people there as its not a suitable climb for tourists and I can see why. Getting back up one of them was even worse as its very slippy with mud and there was only a few bits of wood and stones to pull your body up it. But having got up it was a great feeling.
Anyway the main story. As it was Friday, this is the day that the miners worship the devil (as he is king of underground) they celebrate and drink to him in hope that they will have good quality metals that will fetch a good price at market the next day. We gave the miners our gifts and drank and chewed coco with them while they finished work. We that moved up one level to there social area which is well ventilated to do more of the same, then moved to the devil sculpture to do more of the same. They mixed this moon shine with water but it was rank and as you had to poor a little of every drink you took onto the ground for the gods, I got away with pouring most of mine away each time. It was an insult to refuse anything they offered so we had to keep taking it.
It was interesting as everything they said was translated for us and they equally were curious to find out more about us. As most of the miners start when they were 18 (some even youngers but this is illegal) they donīt have much grasp of what goes on in the rest of the world. But we met the oldest miner, he was 55 (most donīt live past 45) and he was a very wise man indeed. He was extremely aware of the injustise in the conditions they work in. No other mine in the world is still mined soley by hand and traditional techniques, as this one is. Plus it has been mined for so many years there is very little left to mine.
When we came out of the mine, the miners invited us into their changing room for more drink. We finished up at 9pm. Absolutely shattered from being so long underground. The miners were very friendly and curious people. They were very appreciative of our gifts and more than happy to share with us. They gave us little souviners of zinc and silver still in rock. It was a very peculiar and fasinating experience.
