Beautiful Lofoten, Finally living the dream!

Trip Start Feb 02, 2010
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Trip End Feb 02, 2011


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Flag of Norway  , Nordland,
Sunday, August 1, 2010

Wednesday afternoon we arrived in Lofoten and set up camp in a village called Tind. Our camp is tucked away behind a ruined house overlooking a lake. Mountains tower above us and a great big waterfall is gushing over the mountains on the other side of the lake. Just below our camp a freshwater stream is running past and a few hundred meters away is the sea. We have everything we need here, a place to sleep, fresh drinking water, a sea full of fish and even a ruined house for scavenging firewood. As soon as we had set up camp, (Felix has chosen a rather interesting place to pitch the tent in a mossy puddle on a slope, but never mind that for now, it was very comfy.) we went straight out to the rocks to test the new fishing rod in the calm Norwegian seas. And it worked very well! In not very long at all we had two eating size fish, one caught by Felix and the other by me. We grilled the fishies on an engangs grill and they made a delicious dinner along with fresh lemon and bread.

 Thursday it was gloriously sunny and fairly warm considering we were now in the Arctic Circle, (we crossed into it on the ferry on Monday). We slept in until it was unbearably hot in the tent with the sun shinning right onto it so to freshen up we went for a short wander over to the lake where we found a nice spot to have a wash and a little swim. We then kept walking uphill toward the waterfall. Above the waterfall there was yet another lake with even more waterfalls running into it. The views were so spectacular, what a beautiful place this is. We walked the long way back down to camp where we collected our fishing rod and went fishing for dinner. Again it didn’t take long to catch a big Cod. 

 As we were packing up from a wonderful dinner of smoked cod - which we smoked ourselves in a homemade smokehouse - round the corner came a friendly looking couple in motorbike gear. Felix and I both got a small shock - at first I thought it was Flo and Andrea from Austria and Felix thought it was Michi! They turned out to be a nice Polish couple looking for a place to cook a little and camp for a night before an early morning ferry back to Bodo. Of course we let them use our fire and set up a tent next to us and we had a really nice unexpected evening talking with them about travelling around Europe. A strangely warm wind was blowing and the sunsetting behind the mountains was spectacular. Felix knew that feeling of a hot evening breeze and warned of a brewing storm (‘Arrgh, storms’ a’comin, to be sure, to be sure..... Me old sea dog..’).

 When we woke on Friday morning it was windy, drizzly and overcast. Felix was right out their fishing again and after some coaxing I came out too. We had no luck with fish, only two very small ones too small to keep. We went for another walk to a town a little further down the road called , an old fishing village kept running as a fishing village for tourists in Summer, it is mainly a museum but in Winter we think it is commercially active with fishing for Cod that is hung and dried for export, one of Norway’s oldest exports since the 800’s. Here we found a little bakery still running since 1844 that used to feed the hundreds of fishermen who swamped Lofoten but now only feeds the swamping tourists in Summer. But all that aside it is definitely one of my favourite bakeries ever, Felix thinks it is like the Warrandyte Bakery, they bake the most delicious cinnamon scrolls and their loaves of bread are so wonderful, like no other break you can buy, really dense and solid and homemade tasting. We also tried fishing from another spot, again only catching two baby fish. Back at our favourite spot near our camp we tried again, still with no luck, both the eating size fish we hooked managed to get away before we could catch them proper

 Very early yesterday morning we woke to rain again splattering down on our tent. Ah, just a little rain we thought and went back to sleep. An hour or so later we woke again with big puddles in our tent. Our tent witch had stood up so wonderfully to it first rain test wasn’t coping with such a long, steady and solid downpour. For the next few hours we stayed dosing in bed, periodically waking to mop the puddles. All day it rained and all day we stayed in bed, we worked out by placing our super towels around the edge in the leaking places we could keep everything mostly dry. Apart from a few small drips the tent was still keeping us very dry and warm, we were so grateful to have it. Thankfully the rain mostly stopped during the night so we were able to have a little stretch, something to eat and could move the tent to a flatter, less damp spot where it functioned much better.

 Today it rained most for of the day. In the afternoon it cleared for a while so we had a chance to cook and move about, even long enough to fish a little - we managed to catch a nice Mackerel which we smoked again and was even better then the Cod. So now it looks like it going to rain again tonight. I’m trying very, very, very hard to keep it together in the rain. I hate it raining so much when I’m camping - especially when I’m camping in a place I’ve wanted to come to so much and pushed so hard to get to. It’s really testing me. Rain aside Lofoten has been so wonderful so far, I haven’t  heard anything of whale bones, despite reading the Lofoten magazine cover to cover. I have found a Viking festival and a Organic farm to visit though, they are much further up the islands, we will probably stay here a few more day before we go that way, it’s just so lovely here. 
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