Room with a View

Trip Start Jun 08, 2010
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Trip End Aug 26, 2010


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Flag of Croatia  , Korcula,
Thursday, July 8, 2010

I was awoken this morning just before 6am by the some of someone dragging their suitcase down the hotel stairs. There's no elevator, so it's hard to blame them, but at 6am, it's also really hard not to. Luckily, I happened to look out my window to see a beautiful sunrise lighting the bay. It was a little consolation, but I only managed to watch a few minutes before going back to bed.

Like yesterday, I spent most of my day sitting, but this time I didn't mind. Since my hotel room had a great view of the harbor, I might have sat there all day watching the boats if the cleaning crew hadn't knocked on my door. In order to give the maids some space to work, I walked over to the old town. Really, this wasn't necessary since I somehow ended up with a large two-room suite. I think it may have been the best one in the building.

Although I can't compare the rest of the two islands, or nearby excursions, I did like Korčula town much better than Hvar town. I don't know exactly why I liked it so much more than Hvar, but there were many possibilities. Probably a lot of it had to do with first impressions. Two hot, sweaty hours in the afternoon searching up and down a hill for my pension versus an arrival at dusk with a light breeze and a quick trip to my hotel followed by the Moreška performance.

Of course, there were some concrete differences too. For one thing, Korčula's old town had a better arrangement. It jutted out on a peninsula making it one contained unit, which was easier to wander than Hvar where the town was a boomerang shape going up the side of a large hill. Another advantage of the peninsula shape was Korčula had public docks on one side and public bathing on the other. In Hvar, the swimming areas were a little outside of the town, which was taken up by the harbor. Also, I think the hill blocked some of the breeze in Hvar, Korčula didn't seemed as hot.

Korčula also seemed like a better town for swimming. The swimming areas were more spread-out, so people weren't sitting on top of each other. Korčula also had a greater number of shady places to sit next to the water. I found a space under a palm tree by the rocky shore and sat for a while watching the water.

When I wasn't sitting, I did check out Korčula's (no surprise) Venetian Gothic old town. I also stopped into two "museums", which were really just tower climbs with a few pictures stuck on the walls and declared to be exhibits. They were each only around $2, though, so I didn't mind.

The first was "Marco Polo's House". It was really a building constructed on the site where a house Marco Polo may have been born in, or at least lived in, had once stood. The second tower/"museum" had reproductions of a few old photos and blurbs about the Moreška. It was a bit more interesting than it should have been since I had just seen the performance the night before. The oldest picture was from the late 1800's. It appeared that what I called the Red King was actually properly referred to as the White King, the Black King and his army actually wore black-face at one point (ugh) because the dance depicted Christians and Moors (in some areas it was Christians and Turks or Moors and Turks). Also, the swords seem to have been much longer originally, although that could have just been staged for the pictures.

After the town, it was sea-side pizza, an ice cream cone, and back to my room for a long evening of admiring the views from my balcony. I'll miss Crazy Quiz Night down in the hotel restaurant, but you've gotta make choices...
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