Ko Phi Phi
Trip Start
Mar 04, 2006
1
17
19
Trip End
Apr 13, 2006
Ko Phi Phi, Thailand
Monday, April 10, 2006
Our route there was a bit unplanned. Our priority at the time was getting out of Ko Lok, so it wasn't until we were on the bus and headed for Phuket that we really figured out how we were going to get to Phi Phi. We thought we'd have to head to Phuket and grab another bus to Krabi in order to get a boat to Phi Phi, but found a reference in our Lonely Planet to ferries there from Phuket, saving us another day of travel. We got off the bus at the Phuket terminal, followed the first tout to the nearest travel agency, bought tickets and were whisked off to the harbor in a chop top turquoise convertible with lemon yellow upholstery. The ride alone had us grinning all the way to the ferry.
Two hours later we disembark on Phi Phi figuring on getting a boat to somewhere on the east side, away from the most touristy areas. We get grabbed by a tout for the Relax Beach Resort almost immediately, who promises us a free water taxi to the place and a rate of 800 baht a night. More on that later. We figure what the heck, if it doesn't live up to our expectations (and the price), we'll move on the next day. It turns out to be exactly the kind of place we were looking for. Simple wooden bungalows on the beach, with restaurant and cocktail bar, and no close neighbors. Best of all, world class snorkeling 50 meters offshore, which we took advantage of over the next few days. It was fantastic, truly an aquatic wonderland, with a healthy reef and loads of fish. And of course Karen turns out to have eyes like a hawk, spotting all sorts of rare finds, like two octopus' and an eel hiding out under some plate coral that anyone else (me, for instance) would have overlooked. It was fantastic.
Now, about Relax Resort. The taxi there turned out not to be free (400 baht), and it was 1200 a night, not 800, and still we loved it there. Pretty good food at the restaurant (try the cheeseburger), good cocktails served by a bartender unbeatable at checkers (he trounced Karen, who trounced me (and had just finished wiping the floor with me in Connect4)) and incredible snorkeling, all away from the main tourist area. If you're looking for peace and quiet, give it a shot. Also, you can walk up the coast a bit to Rantee Beach if you're looking for more food options. If you do, stop by the Rantee Bar and ask for Andrew. Great guy, a Burmese expat working in Thailand, just starting his own business. Liked him a lot.
Time to head back to Bangkok and bring this whole thing to an end. Not real happy about that, for obvious reasons.
