Not Ubud - cockfighting
Trip Start
Oct 02, 2008
1
7
16
Trip End
Nov 30, 2008
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Ubud, Bali, Indonesia
Thursday, October 23, 2008
One day I was traveling through eastern Bali when Nyoman called. She said there were 2 cock fights scheduled the next day. So I hurried back early the next morning.
Cockfighting is another 'ceremony' that doesn't get advertised. But it's rather important and much more structured than I had anticipated. The cockfight is often held in a temple. A Hindu priest usually attends even if it occurs elsewhere. And winners pay a 10% fee on their earnings.
Cockfighting is for men only. No women or children. The only time women are allowed is to offer Hindu blessings or sell beverages.
Each fight starts the same. The owners will usually turn over their prized rooster to a manager who will preen it for fighting. The manager will massage the rooster, pluck out loose feathers around the head and neck and then antagonize it. Then two roosters are confronted. Who's the alpha male? If there's enough conflict, men will start betting. Kind of like Wall Street with an auctioneer. When there's enough interest, the roosters are separated and prepped. A two inch blade is tied behind one foot. Then the cockfighting begins. The roosters square off and scuffle. If it appears to be a draw, both are put under a bamboo cage. In a confined space, they are forced to fight. At the end, one winner and one dead.
It all seemed rather cold-hearted to me. There is no attachment or feeling for the roosters. The losing rooster is cut up and plucked for dinner. At the end of the ceremony, everybody walks out in an eerie, somber quiet.
At the beginning of the day, I was pretty excited to be able to see a live cockfight during my holiday. But two fights were enough for me. I received several more invitations but declined them all.
