Trekking around Sapa

Trip Start Jan 19, 2006
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44
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Trip End Jan 19, 2007


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Monday, February 27, 2006

Today we were met by our guide 'Ban' a girl from the Black H'mong tribe. She took us on our trek to Lao Chau and Ta Phinh which covered about 11km. We started in the clouds in Sapa but within about 20 mins it began to clear and we actually saw sunshine for the first time in a couple of weeks! Before we descended from the road onto the muddy path we fortunately bought a couple of bamboo sticks to help us (we are getting old) - which were lifesavers a couple of times in v muddy vertical bits!

The scenery was absolutely amazing. Terraces for miles around descending into the valley and a river running through the middle occasional streams and waterfalls alongside our path. Terraces were mainly paddy fields some with ducks swimming in them others with water buffalo just wallowing. Every now and again some kids (usually girls) would follow us trying to get us to buy their handicrafts. Over the course of the day we have had the same conversation about 50 times which goes as follows:

Whats your name?
Emma
Thats a very nice name
Where you from?
England
London or near London?
London
How old are you?
33
Very young
You married?
Yes, thats my husband
Whats husband name?
David
Very nice name
How old husband?
31
Very young
You have brother/sisters
etc, etc

Most of the girls are between 8-14 years old and are very sweet. Again feel bad for not buying anything but what can you do? Also met two young boys aged 4 and 5 wandering on the path who broke my heart. They were orphans as their father had died and their mother had remarried and moved elsewhere. They were now living with their grandmother. They were covered in mud and sucking on sugar cane (as most people do here). They didn't ask for anything and much as I wanted to give them some money I was just worried that this may pollute them thinking that tourists will always give them money. Charities are the way to go I think.

We were also doing our trek with an girl from Oz and two brothers from the US and their guide 'Lily' who was a real character. As amusing as it is for someone out here to speak really conversational English, its quite depressing when they come out with things like 'diamond geezer'.

We then went to another couple of villages where we saw a school (they go from 8-18), rice mills, building sites, etc. We then went into a wedding party where everyone was eating and drinking rice wine. We were forced to down a few glasses which was lethal again. Apparently I was noticeably pale 30 mins later (even after an steep walk uphill - which is saying something for me!). Has been an absolutely fascinating day and probably the most amazing scenery I have seen in a long time.

We now go down to Lao Cai to get our overnight train back to Hanoi. Trip has been great overall and worth the $70 dollars each - including 1st class train, meals for 2 days, double room, guided trek, market trip. Tomorrow morning off to Halong Bay fingers crossed we will get more sun!
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