On the Road again: towards the Inka's centre
Jul 06, 2007
Aug 05, 2007
Wolf's dad is re-married to a Peruvian, and they live in Cusco. Consequently, the convenient part of our journey starts now. We are welcomed with onion tart, chocolate cake, fruit salad, brazil nuts and Cuzque ñ a
beer. The muchacha
will wash our clothes, and a driver will pick us up the next morning for an individual tour.
We stop only once on the trip, that is on the Border to collect our stamps. There are tourists only on the bus, and we learn later that there is a law that allows tourists and nationals to be transported separately. The bus's toilet is actually just a urinal. Apparently some other travellers didn't know that, hence the smell. However, the sewage is drained onto the roadside sometimes here and there. I don't use that toilet at all and will feel as if my bladder is bursting once we arrive. Along our route, we have a few glimpses of Lake Titicaca but no idea about the whereabouts of the Islas Ballestas. Later, we reach La Raya Pass (which is also the water divide between Atlantic and Pacific), and from there it is getting more scenic. Steamy pillars reveal the pools of Aguas Calientes. Glancing into the valley of the Rio Apurimac, you imagine people dithering along one of the last old-style rope-bridges. You wonder what travellers had hoped for when leaving from Urcos on the trail to Puerto Maldonado (taking 72 hours at least). That trail becomes piece by piece the Interamazonica Tarmac - another adventure disappearing.