Surprising Delightful Vison in Liuzhou
Trip Start
Jun 24, 2011
1
6
Trip End
Jul 20, 2011
What I did
Travelled to Zhangjiajie via Liuzhou
Liuzhou, Guangxi Zhuangzu Zizhiqu, China
Friday, July 8, 2011
The first leg of our journey was a three hour coach journey from Yangshuo to Liuzhou towards the south - the opposite direction to where we were heading, but the nearest major train station. We dreaded the 7-odd hours of waiting we'd need to do between the coach's arrival, and the 21h47 departure of the train to Zhangjiajie.
Instead of a boring wait in a train station, however, a delightful adventure awaited. The drive into Liuzhou certainly wasn't inspiring - the now familiar mix of old and newer apartment blocks stretched in all directions. We had never heard of Liuzhou and I'd been able to find out little on the web, the night before.
At the bus station (which poor communication led us to believe WAS also the train station) we managed to leave most of our luggage at a parcel counter. Freed of the weight, we drifted to a nearby restaurant, where the friendly young waitresses thought it was great fun to try out their English on us. Our confused orders resulted in a table-ful of tasty food for only 60 RMB (about R61). It all ended very happily with many photos taken mutually. Next we went across the road to a pretty park we'd noticed, which featured a steep, forested karst hill (similar to those in Yangshuo).
We set off to climb the hill, gaining better and better views. On reaching the top we found that there was a little cable way going up to the top of a much higher adjacent karst hill/mountain. Of course we had to take it! I loved the first bit and was then overcome with unreasonable fear at being hoisted high above the ground in a creaky and aged municipal vehicle. Sam kept having fits of laughter which made our little pod vibrate which made me beg him to stop which tickled him all the more... I vowed not to get back into that car, and indeed I did not.
From the top of this higher mountain the views were truly amazing, and Liuzhou was revealed as a large and impressive city built around the sinuous meanders of a major river, with the suburbs encircled with misty karst hills. A few old neighbourhoods remained, reminding that this was probably a smallish industrial riverside town not too long ago. Cranes dipped their heads over newly rising blocks.
We only had enough time to take photos of it all, before the entire city disappeared in a cloud of mist, and a soft rain came down. With that, the cable cars ground to a halt. After a few games of cards, we decided that we'd better start heading down on foot, rather than miss the train. By this time, Paul had observed from above that the 'station' we'd left our stuff at was not located near any railway line.
Finding the train station was a long and tiring process with backpacks and sore legs, but just as we'd reached the end of our energies, a kind photographer with excellent English appeared. He set us onto the no. 16 bus which finally dropped us at the main train station. (It seems that whenever one looks desperate enough in China, someone kind and able to communicate always does appear.)
This overnight train was much cheaper than the one we'd taken from Shenzhen to Guilin, and also MUCH dirtier. Fortunately the lights went off and it all became invisible. Next morning it was all to clear in the light of day, but fortunately there were great views of gorgeous green valleys with fields of rice and other crops and small villages, some with some old-style houses.
What I find amazing about much of the rural landscape is the absence of commercialisation. We saw one billboard the whole morning, small shops must exist but I think they are in the lower storeys of homes and they are unmarked by Coke logos and the like. There are just homes, and power and electricity lines. Many of the houses, while not luxurious, look surprisingly well built in relation to the small farms the inhabitants cultivate. Paul reminded me that, just like at home, these houses are built with money sent home by children and relatives working in distant cities.
Sadly, trying to take photos from train windows is mostly frustrating and fruitless, so you'll have to take our word for it.
Here's a pic of some agricultural fields along the way.
Comments
Baie dankie, Elizazbeth - dis (amper) asof ons dit gesien het... Ek wys ook vir Pa en lees vir hom. Geniet die laaste dae. Liefde en XXX vir almal.
Amazing to follow your journey. Thank you!