High Altitude Encounters

Trip Start Dec 15, 2009

Trip End Aug 15, 2010

Loading Map

Map your own trip!

Map Options

Show trip route

Hide lines

Where I stayed

Simien Park Hotel

(Debark hotels)

Flag of Ethiopia Debark, Ethiopia
Monday, January 25, 2010

From the very religious and cultural experience of Timkat, we left Gonder and headed to the Simien Mountains region. Our starting point was the town of Debark. The morning we left Debark to go to the Mountains, we had to pick up 3 armed guards and a guide which was mandatory for the area we were entering. We weren’t too sure why we needed the guards but we have come to the unfortunate conclusion that one reason we need them is to keep the local people away from us. Wherever we go, we hear a chorus of “you-you-you” as the truck drives by. Usually as soon as the truck stops, children will start running down from the hills, from seemingly nowhere, to see us and ask us for money or a pen or Highland (a brand name of a local bottled water company). Our tour leaders reinforced what I had previously read in my guidebook and asked us not to give them anything. Many of the tourist towns have also set up programs to reduce the number of children hassling the tourists. You will see in some of our later pictures the crowds of children we attract when we stop to eat or to camp overnight

Ed and Barb - 4000m

.

So we left Debark with our extra passengers and drove on windy mountainous dirt roads to our first camp in the Simien Mountains. Sankaber Camp is at an altitude of about 3100 metres. On the way there we encountered a very tame group of approximately 100 gelada baboons. They let us get within 1 or 2 metres of them – it was incredible!

After we set up our tents, our guide took us on a walk along the highland plateaus for a couple of hours. Shortly after returning from our walk it began to pour! Luckily, we were able to take refuge in Gertie (the overland truck) but it was a very wet evening. There’s nothing worse than camping in the rain! This was the first rain we had had since the beginning of our trip so we really can’t complain……too much.

I was really worried about how rainproof our tent was but Ed assured me he had it under control. He moved our bags away from the tent walls, made a moat/trench outside the tent to divert the water away from the top of our tent and made sure our fly was pegged so it that it did not touch the tent walls. We were dry and comfy all night long unlike many of our fellow passengers

Walia Ibex

!

The following morning we drove to the next camp in the Simien Mountains, Chennek Camp, at an altitude of about 3600m. By this time, seeing gelada baboons was commonplace. We were looking forward to today’s hike, as we would be looking to spot the rare and elusive Walia Ibex. The day was overcast and more rain seemed imminent. According to our guide, the chances of spotting an Ibex was somewhat reduced, due to the weather – but he seemed confident he could make our effort worthwhile. So, after lunch, with our guide and a scout, we started hiking further up into the mountains. We soon discovered that our altitude was over 4000 meters (12,000 feet).

After a couple of hours of hiking, we were thrilled to see a small herd of the Walia Ibex!! There were about 25 of them mixed in with a group of about 50 gelada baboons. The mountain views were also magnificent! It rained a little, but nothing could dampen our spirits after achieving our goal of seeing these magnificent animals.

From here, we go to the ancient city of Axum and on to Lalibela with its rock-hewn churches.

Slideshow

Post your own travel photos for friends and family More Pictures

New friends?	1st Base Camp Comments!	Local villagers - Simien Mountains	Gelada Baboons - Simien Mountains Comments!
Gelada Baboons - Simien Mountains	Simien Mountains - Baboon	What a cute couple!	Armed Escort - Simien Mountains Comments!
Trial Separation?	The Head Honcho	Leader of the Pack!	2nd Base Camp - 3600m
Coffee Time!	Walia Ibex	Walia Ibex	Silouette - Walia Ibex
2nd Base Camp - 3600m	Five of us who made it! Comments!	Grivet Monkeys

Previous Entry Next Entry

Comments

Oliver (Mühlheim, Germany) on Feb 6, 2010 at 01:22PM

Hi Ed & Barb,

thanks a lot for letting us read about your journey - we enjoy your reports very much! Good to know that you are healthy and everything is going well.

Here it was unusual cold for the last three weeks, with snow & ice... a water pipe burst, just outside the house under the street surface, and we had some water in the cellar, but your luggage was not affected and your bikes "sleep" comfortably in the garage.

Have a good time! Oliver & Daniela with Florian & Benjamin

Sheryl on Feb 6, 2010 at 04:31PM

Hi Barb and Ed,

What an incredible experience! The pictures are absolutely beautiful...who knew you had such artist talent. Can't wait to hear about your next exciting adventure. Life will sure seem dull when you get back home to work!
Take care,

shelley collins on Feb 6, 2010 at 08:19PM

we have been facinated by your trip and just booked a trip to Egypt for Dec-Jan.

Thanks for sharing all your great pictures!!

Sid & Claire on Feb 7, 2010 at 09:40PM

Wow, what mavelous journey you are having. As you likely know, many of our club members are preparing for the Birkie next weekend and the EBTC AGM is just a few weeks away.

While you are enjoying mostly sunny skies Whistler and other Vancouver area mountain olympic facilities are trucking snow in from Manning park in an effort to beat the warm weather and rain that is reaking havoc with the venu preparations.

Love reading your updates and happy to know you are having a great time.

Cheers,
Sid & Claire

Jasmine on Feb 8, 2010 at 01:17AM

Hi Barb and Ed,
I really loved all the exciting adventure news you had to share with us! Those armed men looked friendly enough! I am glad they kept you safe! The pics were fantastic and I cannot wait for the official Barb and Ed Travel night when you return! Keep safe and enjoy this once in a lifetime experience!!!

Nancy and Dale on Feb 8, 2010 at 04:43AM

Hi Barb and Ed
Okay, so did you just cut and paste these photos from the National Geographic web site or did you really take them?... they are amazing! We've been thoroughly enjoying your photo journal and the stories of your adventures. Keep 'em coming!

Jenn Anderson on Feb 8, 2010 at 03:37PM

Thanks for another great update you two. The office misses you Ed!

treacleminer on Feb 8, 2010 at 04:24PM

You were really lucky to see the timkat festival (we missed it) According to our guide (an Ethiopian) when we were there the children begging are mainly after any empty water bottles you may have as there is a shortage of water containers especially in the rural areas. Your lucky to be with Ed obviously an experienced camper keeping you dry and comfortable.Who in the party wasnt? Dont let Ant drive when its wet you know what he is like for getting stuck.
Janet and Colin enjoyed their trip to the Nuba mountains, they nearly got arrested for taking photos even though they had a permit.
Anne & I Are envious of you even though we were there in 2008 reading your blurb makes us wish we were back there with you, The tribes in the Omo valley are well worth seeing but you will find the Mursi tribe very arrogant and demanding money for every photo, try to take them on zoom from a distance photos of them are a lot more when they dont know and are not posing.

Nadine on Feb 8, 2010 at 04:51PM

Hi Ed & Barb,

I think Nancy and Dale are on to you, magnificent adventures and photos you guys are getting !

- Nadine

Chris Preshing on Mar 2, 2010 at 03:19PM

hi Barb and Ed,
Thank you for such a great show. I love all the pictures and stories and truly wish I was there with you. What a life . Happy for you.... stay healthy and safe, keep it coming . I am just back from my 16 day Panama cruise it was also wonderful but I love your adventure type to. Stay in love have fun together each day. hugs chris