Zobue Border for Malawi in 8 Days

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  Chimoio, Manica, Mozambique
Wednesday, October 6, 2010

8days was all we had left on our already extended visas. This thought came to us both as we were sitting in Alex's house in Chimoio. We had happened to stumble upon good luck once again from Gorongosa – Inchope, our restart point for the East Africa Cycle. A bolea had offered to carry us and our gear the 80km for only 50mt! £1 was extremely reasonable considering the time it would take us to tackle the hills of Gorongosa. We were also joined by Aj, Alice, Anna and Mike who were all leaving Brian and Jordan’s house for their own. So there we were for the next hour or so, 6 cramped white guys with 2 bicycles riding a bolea all the way to Inchope. We arrived a little achy and in need of a good stretch but alive none the less. The others all needed to continue South but Tom and I would be heading Further North from here to Chimoio. We said farewell, brought some much needed supplies, Agua, Bread and biscuits. (A diet our delicate bodies have now become dependent on) Chimoio was 66km away from Inchope and it was already 8.30am. We pushed past the first few hills and enjoyed a very strange but pleasant encounter with 7 Muslims. They had caught Tom cycling and called him over. They had all travelled from Pakistan to live in Mozambique for 3 months and teach Muslim to the people. 'Pete, PETE!’ Tom shouted whilst waving his hands towards me. I hadn’t notice the initial stop due to my focus on completing another hill. I pulled over and joined in with the discussion about our trip and the work of the 7 Muslims. We were quickly invited to join them for Tea in one of their rooms. A few further discussions arouse then the Tea was placed in front of both Tom and I with a plateful of Biscuits in the middle. Eager eyes watched with great smiles as we conversed and sipped our delicious Tea. Once I had finished my Biscuits another pile was placed in front of me, then another and another until I could take no more Biscuits. I thought I could leave a few and put a pause to this very generous feeding. After our Tea was finished more was poured then Bread and chicken was offered. We were told that in their religion a guest as Tom and I would receive 72 hours of spoils and luxury. I thought about this and quickly calculated that if we did indeed take these kind Muslims up on the 72 hours we would have 71 hours left of enjoyment but 3 days less on reaching the Malawi Border. We unfortunately had to part but not before allowing 2 of them to try our bikes. As we waved goodbye we were handed 2 small bottles of cologne as a gift. We thanked them all again and then parted for Chimoio. At around 11am we were beaten back to many times by the sun that caused us to stop. Luckily we were just passing a small shop offering cold drinks and shelter in a small empty unfinished hall at the rear. Tom slept whilst I read. At 2.30pm we pushed on to Chimoio once again and arrived at around 4pm or so. Alex from Gorongosa has a house in Chimoio which she kindly offered to allow us to stay. She also said that there is a Shoprite just down the road from her house. Shoprite is somewhat of a supreme luxury in Mozambique. You can buy almost anything you like to eat and drink. Whilst we waited for directions from Alex I was approached by a Man called James. He was a self appointed Humanitarian and offered to let us stay with him. I appreciated the offer but explained about our previous arrangements s with Alex. He told me about how he lives in different suffering countries for 9 months each year and helps to improve life in whatever way possible. Currently he was living in Chimoio working in a poor district helping maintain medication with the HIV pos patients whilst also developing simple measures for local people to use to sustain an income. E.g. someone owns a bicycle but has no chain. James would donate the chain which would allow the Cyclist to create and income via deliveries and commuting to work ect. He offered to take us around the next day and visit his project. I arranged a time of 7am. My phone beeped just us Tom arrived back from his time in Shoprite. It was Alex and we now had directions. I told Tom about James and he agreed to visit tomorrow at 7am. We arrived at Alex’s house just shy of darkness. She lived in a nice area with a fenced house and locked porch. We unpacked our bikes and went inside. Brian from Gorongosa was also there as he needed to catch a flight from Chimoio to Maputo to take classes for the new Peace Corps Volunteers who were arriving in a few days. Alex also had a shower which we quickly indulged ourselves with. Freshly scrubbed we all headed back to Shoprite for food. As we walked towards the electric sliding door entrance I noticed myself being enticed by the lights. Once over the threshold I could see rows upon rows of every kind of food you could wish for. I felt like Peter Pan sitting at the table with every different type and color of food. We needed only pasta and vegetables but ended up with Chocolate, Fresh drinks, good red win, crisps and other nice snacks, but we did at least get the pasta and vegetables. Alex prepared a nice meal with salad (Minus the dressing) and garlic bread. Everyone was still tired from the weekend so it wasn’t long until we all slept. Up early at 6am to meet James at 7am and we realized there was a downpour of rain outside. Not a good start to the day. We decided to sit it out for a bit before trying to meet James. The rains however kept coming which resulted in Tom and I missing our visit with James. We also hadn’t got his number and so couldn’t explain our absence. As it was looking like either a morning in or a mud pit outside we had a quick vote to stay put. In fact ‘Well I’m not going anywhere in that’ was Brian’s input. We ate some oats which Alex had kindly prepared and played Settlers which Alex had brought back from Gorongosa. We must have sat there for at least 2 hours exchanging Wheat for Ore and Ore for Sheep until we realized the rains had stopped. It was about 11am when we all decided to brave the outside. Brian had to catch his plane, Alex needed to go into school and Tom and I needed to buy a few things for the road tomorrow. I also needed to withdraw some Money to last the stretch to Zobue but noticed that every Mozambique person in Chimoio also had the same idea. Alex suggested a bank just around the corner which wouldn’t have queues. ‘Banko Terra?’ I questioned. ‘I can see why this one isn’t so popular’ I joked. ‘I think I’ll wait until I get back to Shoprite and queue for a more official bank’. We moved on swiftly for lunch as Alex had to leave for her School. Café Chimoio was our feeding place. 2 cheese grills, some Batata and 1 lemon twist was to be my fuel. Meghan another volunteer from Catandica was also in town and she joined us for food. She explained that we could stay with her as Catandica was on our route. After eating we all parted in different ways, Alex for school, Brian for the Peace Corps office, Meghan for Catandica and Tom and I for the local food Market. Alex had given Tom the keys so that we could relax back at the house until she arrived home at about 5.30pm. In the market we brought some vegetables, Atom and a few other small things then left for Shoprite to buy mince and a few luxuries for the cycle tomorrow. I left Shoprite with 2 chocolate bars, 1 packet of crisps, 1 slab of cheese, bread, baked beans, Nutella, 1 yoghurt, soap, a toothbrush, some Strawberry and Cream sweets and more Agua. (Perhaps a few other things which I obviously devoured to quickly for my brain to register I had even brought). I also managed to use the ATM for vital cash. Back at Alex’s Tom prepared dinner whilst I chopped a few vegetables. Chili-con-carne was Tom’s special of the day. When Alex arrived back we all ate well. There was even enough left for Tom and I to save for lunch tomorrow. Just after 8pm and Alex had to leave again as she would be teaching night class until 11pm. something I was not jealous about. When she left both Tom and I packed away our kit and newly acquired food. It wasn’t long until I was out for the count as I was awakened by Alex returning. I think I murmured something before falling asleep again. The next morning the rains had stopped but the sky was still a little overcast. Perfect for cycling. It was now Thursday and we had only 7 days left. We thanked Alex again for her hospitality. I left some Cheese, Chocolate and fruit for a parting gift. Heads focused and a little chilly we headed out with every day until Zobue accounted for.

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