Opononi

Trip Start Dec 02, 2005
1
8
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Trip End Dec 29, 2005


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Saturday, December 10, 2005

Decided to skip the northernmost tip of Northland, where you can see an ancient tree at Cape Reinga that stretches it's roots into the ocean. Ancient Maori legend goes that when a New Zealander dies the spirit of the soul will find it's way to the tree and leave the land via the roots out to sea. Sounds like we get two versions of everything on our trip, the geological or natural explanation about landscapes, growth etc, and then the Maori legend which is usually the more interesting one. Maori's saw the earth as a living thing and mountains etc are the gods among others - but more of that later. So skipped the lengthy return trip to Cape Reinga and hence the chance to go sand surfing on the huge sand dunes and went directly to the West Coast at Opononi. Continuing the dolphin theme, Opononi's claim to fame was that in the 50s, a dolphin approached the beach to play with children for three days. (It then got accidentally killed, but they don't talk as much about that).

On the way there we visited the Hundertwasser toilets - funny how things come round. In 1996 we spent some time in Vienna at the Hundertwasser museum and read how the self-proclaimed green Genius went to New Zealand as he had a better chance to fulfill his artist dream and lifestyle. This involved merging modern living more with nature, meaning you grow grass on your roof among others. Whilst talking about toilets - it is amazing how numerous and clean public toilets are in this country. In the end we opted for a van without toilet on board (a 50% discount) based on the notion that the country is big and wild enough you can find a quiet place somewhere. Obviously to stop this revolting tourist attitude, there are bizarrely clean toilets and sinks pretty much every where.

Anyway, in Opononi we had our first proper camp, parking the van on a hillside with fantastic views over Hokianga Harbour and the sand dunes of 90-mile beach on the other side (which apparently is not 90 miles at all). People kept telling us that the South Island is the more beautiful one, so not quite sure what to expect, as we spend our days with open mouth looking at the splendour of natural beauty before our eyes.
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