Papa Westray, Holm of Westray
Trip Start
Jun 25, 2006
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12
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Trip End
Jul 18, 2006
Papa Westray and Holm of Westray, United Kingdom
Monday, July 3, 2006
Hi Folks,
An early breakfast today as we have two major islands to visit and some steaming time required between them. So its breakfast at 7:00am followed by a 0815 landing at Papa Westray.
We anchored between the island of Westray to our west and its tiny neighbour Papa Westray to our east. Both are rich in seabird colonies and monuments of the prehistoric and viking ages. This morning is about archeology.
Papa Westray, known to locals as Papay, is one of the most northerly of Scotland's Orkney islands. Described as 'Orkney in miniature', this small island is rich in archaeology - including the Knap of Howar (older than the Pyramids) and chambered cairns on the Papay Holm - and birdlife, especially on the North Hill RSPB reserve. The two-minute hop between Papa Westray and its neighbour Westray is the world's shortest scheduled flight.
The scene on Papa Westray was very pastoral and serene despite the urgency of the farmers cutting sileage while the fine weather held. It was touch and go but they just made it! here we scambled ashore to see the oldest known existing houses in Europe, some 600 years older than Skara Brae and dating from 3,600 to 3,100 BC.
Called Knap of Howar, these two oblong stone built houses (believed to be farmsteads) were preserved by wind blown sand and are the earliest North European dwellings known, dating back to 3800 years BC. They were occupied by neolithic farmers for 500 years furnished with hearths, pits, stores, stone and possibly wooden benches. From midden remains the mode of subsistence was primarily pastoral rearing cattle, sheep and pigs. There is some evidence of cereal cultivation and harvesting of fish and shell fish.
Entrance to the houses is by low, narrow passages giving shelter from the Orkney weather. The houses are also linked by an internal passageway
These remarkable and seldom visited farmsteads survive intact to eaves level, still with its stone hearths, seats, room dividers and grinding stones, and is part of a group of similar buildings which housed a community which existed by fishing, hunting and also growing crops. They were not nomadic, there is evidence this house was occupied for around 500 years! Don't build them today like they used too!
But some things don't change, all the great houses we have seen so far have been waterfront, so presumably waterfront property was desirable 5000 years ago as well as today. Click here to jump to more info on Knap of Howar
Then a short Zodiac ride to Holm of Papa on which there is an underground multi-chambered cairn. Quite long and wide, would hold 40 people (standing), but the access was difficult so I didn't climb down into it. The access was via a sqaure shaft about 450cm square in which was a rusting iron ladder (not original) which went about 5 metres into the ground. Many did go down though, and thought it looked really well built, as it should do having lasted 5000 years! I looked at the photos! :) Click here to jump to more info on Holm of Papa
After returning to the ship we had lectures on "Sea Birds of the North" and then lunch as we steamed north to Fair Isle, home to puffins and many other types of sea birds.
Fair Isle, named Peaceful island by the Vikings, lived up to its name with a calm sea as we landed. Like many of these islands it is very small, with a small population, around 70 people. They are putting restrictions on who can come and live there, as they want younger people with children, not retired folks. Fair Isle is famous for wool and knitting, and the Fair Isle pattern in jumpers etc which takes a long time to do and as a result the finished jumpers are very expensive GBP200+ .Our visit was a big event for them, and they arranged afternoon tea in the community hall for us in honour of our visit! Some of the local women had baked, others served and made the tea, and still others had a display of local arts and crafts for sale. It was a very good afternoon tea, bottomless cups of tea and coffee and plentiful food. But actually, after the really good ship food, I really should have shown more restraint. It was nice though. We first went by car to the south of the island to visit the museum and the church, both had been specially opened (and heated) for our visit. Then a walk back to Afternoon tea, then a long walk back to the landing site passing sheep, rabbits and sea birds nesting in the high cliffs and natural arches along the way. Click here to jump to more info on Fair Isle
After returning to the boat, another famous "de-briefing" was held in the bar. This involves the Expedition Leader re-capping what we had done, other people contributing additional things we had seen and done, and drinking a few warming ales/wines/spirits etc :) Then dinner, after which being very tired it was easy to go to bed as the ship steamed further north to Hemaness and Muckle Flugga, the northern most part of the UK. And remembered to close the blackout curtains!
