. This meant I spent the good portion of the following 3 days in bed or at least near a baņo. I was getting quite stir crazy and frustrated by this inactivity. On the 4th day I felt I had the problem under control enough to venture away from Cuzco. I wanted to check out Ollantaytambo in full, an Incan Village we passed through on our way to the Inca Trail. The village has been inhabited since the 13th century according to LP, and the original Inca layout is still in use. In addition, there are a number of impressive ruins in close proximity to the town center. Seemed like a great place to recover.
Somewhere along the 3 hour journey to get there my health began a further downward spiral (not helped by the last 30 minute leg of the journey in which 19 passengers were stuffed into a Toyota van)
. When I arrived in town I had a fever of approximately 110. I also had suddenly developed a nasty cough. I checked into the first hospedeje I could find and hit the bed immediately. Unfortunately, no sleep was to be had for the next 5 hours while I lay there and wonder to myself, 'How can my forehead be so blistering hot yet the rest of me shivers uncontrolably?'. Somewhere in the delirium I managed to swallow some medications that allowed me to regain my senses. I felt strong enough to walk about for some air and thought I should eat something, as yet another day had nearly passed on my 500 calorie per day diet. There were lots of restaurants to chose from, though all were absolutely empty. They were all waiting for the busloads of gringos that never came... I felt a bit sheepish stepping into a place and disturbing their conversation with a food order.
Exhausted from consumption of my plate of spagetti, I figured an early night was in order. To ensure a solid night's sleep, I whipped up a cocktail of Cipro, Nyquil and Tylenol PM - that ought to knock me out! After 2 hours of staring at the inside of my eyelids I dozed off lightly, waking frequently. Perhaps 6 hours of 'sleep' in my 12 hours in bed? What the heck??!!! What kind of bizarro virus is this??!!! Never in my years has Nyquil been stymied!!! Despite being more exhausted than the night before when I finally got out of bed, I was slightly improved as the fever and madness had reduced
. But now I had a much more violent cough (after a few days of this combined with the previous illness, the abs are looking great! a 6-pack in no time!!). I got out of bed long enough to visit the Inca fortress adjacent to town - this was assisted by its presence 100 m from my hostel door.
After a few more sleepless naps and another struggle with dinner, I thought there was no way I would have the same experience as the previous night! Sleep will be mine!!! After 3 hours of looking at the ceiling of my blackened room, I decided to try and make a game out of it and see if I could stay up all night! My first effort was to pen this story. Still didn't do the job. Then things got really wacky and I decided to start writing haikus. 15 or so haikus later my eyelids began to feel heavy. I dozed off and actually slept a bit. I remember a strange feeling of vindication as I this occurred. 'Hah!!! Take that, caffine virus!!!'
I was going to try and see some other local sites, but after eduring a second evening this I came to the conclusion that bad karma existed in this town for me and I should return to Cuzco.
. The haikus. My haikus follow a 3-5-3 rule, not strictly adhering to the traditional 5-7-5. But I did some research and this is still acceptable. I like to think they are more elegant in their simplicity. Here is a sampling:
Let me sleep
Mister you need stick
no i don't
Women wash their clothes
don't drink it
the truth, in Peru?
it is cold
Out of my photo
can't trust them
Nine-teen people full
this is tight
The day after returning from the Inca Trail I promptly contracted my third, most violent bout of