We Lake it, We Lake it Alot
Trip Start
Jan 04, 2012
1
7
24
Trip End
Ongoing
What I did
Lake, Lake, Lake
Likoma Island, Malawi
Sunday, February 12, 2012
The first things that struck us about Malawi were how friendly the people were, that it was quite a bit poorer than anywhere we had been yet, much cheaper and alot less touristy. This was proved right on our trip to the local town pub to watch the football. We were welcomed with football chat, bought our 10p cokes and pulled up an empty crate to sit on. It was great fun, with alot of heckling and banter, none of which we understood but we thoroughly enjoyed it!
After a couple of days we decided to head to a village called Ruarwe to stay at Zulukhuni Lodge. The lodge can either be reached by a 7 hour hike from the nearest road or by boat, luckily we timed our trip to coincide with the boat, phew! The boat that services the lake is called the Ilala an old steam boat that chugs up the lake and back once a week.
We arrived early at the ferry port, which was lucky as it left half an hour early taking everyone by surprise and forcing a man to complete a daring leap from the lower deck. It turns out the captain was worried about completing the journey before the African cup of Nations final kicked off - fair enough everyone on board agreed.
At the smaller villages the boat stops at there is no dock so everything (people, food and furniture) is piled into the 2 life boats that are lowered down from the ferry and transported to the shore. We watched amazed and horrified at the stop before us as one of the life boats was loaded with 2 double beds and mattresses, a 3 piece suite, TV stand, coffee table, bags of maize and then in went the fridge freezer and people. Luckily when it was out turn to climb into the boat there was only 50 people and some chickens - no problem!
The next week at Zulukhuni lodge was our favourite so far during our travels. We had an amazing camping spot right on the lake, spent the days swimming in the crystal clear lake, snorkelling, hiking and meeting the local villages. Charlie and Sally the owners were fantastic as were the other guests who were staying and we made some great friends. There was no electric, no phone signal and no meat! Highlights were visiting the local village where a community project has been set up and helping out at the youth club for the afternoon. We also spent a day hiking 3 hours to the nearest secondary school to talk about a new library that has opened up, this was an eye opener to see the way life is when there are no roads or cars available. Walking is always accompanied by the shouts of children, 'Mzungo Mzungo' (white person) and then they all coming running wanting to high five, hold hands or have there photo taken which is always followed by screams of laughter when they see themselves.
We were very sad to leave after a week but we spent the last day walking up and sliding down the waterfalls led by Charlie, and jumping off a 10m balcony, my landing was not very Tom Daley but it was great fun! Our transport back was slightly more glamorous than on the way there with a James Bond moment on a speedboat. The 7 hour ilala trip was transformed into under 2 hours on what the locals call the flying boat - it is the only thing that is quicker than walking that the locals have ever seen.
Our next stop on the lake was the small island of Chizumulu further south, so back on the Ilala we went and arrived at 2am in the pitch black and put the tent up! The next morning we were delighted to see that yet again we were camping a stone throw from the lake and the village. It is the 5 days spent here we discovered the local snack of Mendozies (similiar to doughnuts) and Malawi Gin! It was a small island easily walked in a day ,again with very friendly people, alot of children and very clear beautiful water.
After two weeks on the lake we decided it was time to leave and go and see what else Malawi had to offer, although we could have quite happily stayed.
Onward to electricity, internet, cheese and some mountains!
