Time to move on...

  Ulan Bator, Mongolia
Tuesday, June 17, 2008

So I am now into my last week here in the land of eternal blue sky...and it defintely feels much more as you might expect a central Asian country with soaring temperatures and the occasional sand storm - but still remarkably little rain.

My work in Darkhan has now been completed - the last couple of weeks were a bit more challenging than anticipated as my translator was taken ill and had to go into hospital for a few days so my Mong-lish was tested to the limits (which even after 3 months is not that far !!). Fortunately she returned for the last week at the Business Incubator and we got our final work completed including a training course being run for the local Disabled Association and final notes and translations of various materials. I had one last meeting with the main Director and senior staff of the Vocational College & Business Incubator where I was presented with the traditional blue scarf (representing the sky here) and milk to drink, a gesture for honoured guests wishing them happiness and well-being. Of course all the health warnings about milk having to be boiled for a minimum of 10 minutes here had to be temporarily forgotten as I was instructed to drink in down and so I did! I was even more taken aback when they explained the superb silver cup was engraved and was for me to keep to thank me for all my efforts - a very humbling recognition indeed.

Before my final week I had managed a couple of other excursions from Darkhan - one up to Sukhbaatar and Altanbulag on the border into Russia - and another to Amarbyasgalant, one of the most famous monasteries in Mongolia and (only) about 3 hours drive away. This estimate did not include the need to change 3 wheels on the car along the way. It was actually quite a relief to see a spare wheel come out of the boot when we had our blow-out - surprisingly this happened on the hard road which you travel on for the first half of the journey and not the 35km off-road which finally gets you up to the monastery. We had deliberated about whether we needed to take a jeep rather than the regular "taxi" type small saloon car, but the absence of rain convinced us we would not need anything more heavy duty than the latter.When the driver was looking puzzled over the new wheel I had a feeling there was something we hadn't noticed - and then it suddenly became clear that the new wheel had a different hub to the one he'd removed! Anyway it seemed to fit ok and we re-packed the boot and off we went (for about 8 seconds!). There was then a terrible screeching sound which we figured was something to do with the front brake pads now rubbing against the new "fatter" wheel...so out we all got. The next procedure involved jacking the car up and finding enough rocks to keep the car off the ground while one of the back wheels was removed, the new "spare" moved to the back and the other one now replaced carefully on the front (with such precision to avoid any further brake friction !).. We were all ready to pile back into the small car when the driver made it very clear that I was not (under any circumstances) to sit in the front, over the offending wheel (presumably being the tallest, heaviest in the car I could be significantly impacting the screeching) and that he needed the lightest member of the party to sit there and lean away from the side of the car for the duration (about another 5 hours round trip !).. Anyway, discomfort aside we made it to Amarbayasgalant which was a stunning setting in the middle of the ever-greener landscape.... The monastery was originally built in the 1720s and during the soviet influence when most religious institutions were destroyed somehow more than 75% of this one remained in tact. There is a rumour that some small side-payments to the demolition teams helped avoid too much damage, but sadly did not save many of the monks at that time being executed. However it is now fully restored and a working temple and it was definitely quite special to hear and see the Buddhist chanting as we wondered around the various temples and grounds, one of which houses the tomb of Zanabazar, the 17th century spiritual leader of Mongolia and renowned poet, sculptor and painter.

Back in Darkhan, my last week-end included being taken for a Mongolian picnic - which involved 12 of us from work heading off in 3 cars (quite luxury) to a spot near a river, taking all the requirements for a "khorhog". This involves cooking sheep or goat with (minimal) vegetables in a metal container cooked over fire with hot rocks....the taste was fantastic and it was good to see some consistency with UK/Western bbq standards - with the men clearly in control of the fire and final cooking (all rest of preparation being undertaken by women!).. .. There was much discussion about exactly where we should light the fire, which meant paddling across the river, gathering wood and setting up the location. It was all looking good until one of the wood-gatherers then decided there was a better spot, just around the corner. So, packing everything up again, we headed to the new location and about half an hour later the fire was re-lit. I can't complain as it was a very relaxed and fun afternoon and a great way to spend my last time with my immediate work colleagues...eating the best Mongolian food I have tasted, playing some ridiculous games and hearing some hidden singing talents from our office !

So, my time here is nearly finished and it's strange to think that in just a few days will be back in the UK. Mid March seems so long ago now and when I set out to come here I was sure it would be an experience very different to anything I had done before and it has certainly lived up to that expectation, but of course what it would bring I was not to know..
At times it has been extremely tough and challenging, but it's been a great experience to remove so much of what is familiar and work out what makes people "tick", why things happen the way they do, how you can contribute effectively and also to see and experience things which on some occasions literally stop you in your tracks - both in a positive and negative way. Of course times like this also really bring home how important people are at home and at work and that has been a big vacuum at times. The Mongolian people I have got to know well have been extremely kind and proud of whom they are and keen for their country to develop. This has made the work feel very worthwhile and hopefully some very small impact in a huge country-wide effort. Like all people they have their idiosyncrasies which you also learn to accept and just live with or ignore, but more than anything I will remember the huge contrasts everywhere - from the tarmac roads which simply run into dust, the nomadic herder with his ger, mobile phone and satellite dish, and from the concrete decaying blocks in towns to the incredible space and rolling hills and mountains of the countryside and the beauty of the steppe and the gobi.
From my very first reaction of "where exactly is Mongolia" I think I've moved on a long way... Hopefully a few of the insights here may have spread the word a bit further.

Take care and see you soon...