Scootering to Panjim and Old Goa
Trip Start
Sep 17, 2010
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3
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Trip End
Ongoing
Panjim, Goa, India
Wednesday, September 29, 2010
En route we were hailed in by the police. They see two white guys on a rented scooter and their mind's eye sees rupees - how much can I screw these two for? Even with a valid driving license, helmets on and proper papers for the bike they still felt it necessary to elicit a healthy fine from us. The policeman's exact words as he began filling out the summons sheet for me to appear in the local court next day were: 'my friend if you respect me and admit you are wrong we can come to an arrangement and forget about this', eyes pointing downwards to his little offical book.I'm like: 'I've done nothing wrong here chief'', to which I get a big smug smile from him 'oh but you have'. So its a toss up between bribing a policeman and going on my merry way or not bribing him, going to court and probably paying a fine anyway! Of course I chose the former but not before Gibs has the brainwave to call the contact we were given by the American guy back in Mumbai. This guy asks to be put onto the police officer and chats for about 2 minutes. When the call is over our 2,000 rupee fine is cut in half and after some more arguing on my behalf we end up driving away with a 700 rupee fine total. Its the first encounter in India where I was truly left with a sour taste in my mouth. India may have the fastest growing Asian economy and it may be the world's largest democracy but the country will never progress onto the world stage in any meaningful way when police corrruption is so pervasive.
We eventually made the 20km journey from Baga to Old Goa. The entire town is a protected UNESCO World Heritage Site and over 500 years old. Once known as the 'Rome of the East' the town was the capital of the state of Goa and a centre of commerce. Today its a quiet town filled with the crumbling remains of old cathedrals and churches built by the Portugese. The highliht for me was the Basilica Of Bom Jesus famous throughout the Roman Catholic world for its long term resident and patron saint of Goa, St. Francis Xavier, whose mausoleum is placed in the church. We also took a tour around the Se Cathedral which is the largest in Asia standing at over 76m long and 55m wide and build in 1562. After lunch in Old Goa we hit the road stopping in Panjim on the way back to Baga. Like Old Goa the Portugese-era colonial charms were prevalent throughout the city centre's two main arteries - Mahatma Ghandi Road and 18th June Road. We visited the Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception which is the spiritual and geographic centre of the city. Built in 1541 the church itself is stacked like a white wedding cake, and back in the day was the first port of call for Portugese sailors disembarking after their long voyage to India.
After clearing our consciences with such a culture filled previous day we decided to laze away the final two days in Baga in style - beer in hand and sand on toes. Both nights were quietish around the town but we managed to cross paths with 3 girls from Calcutta on holidays in Goa. All young professionals and very westernised, we were only too happy to provide some entertainment!
