Pura Natureza

Trip Start Jun 07, 2009
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13
Trip End Aug 23, 2009


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Where I stayed
Pousada Canto Verde

Flag of Brazil  , State of Rio de Janeiro,
Wednesday, June 24, 2009

After a 3 hour cargo/schooner boat ride, we arrived in Itacare.  As usual, the boat was greeted by throngs of locals working for hotels trying to scoop you up and take you back.  We were staying at our friend Marcello's Pousada, which is like a bed and breakfast, but a little cheaper than what you find in the US.  Marcello is a friend from Hawaii, originally from Brazil.  He has not actually been to his Pousada in at least 5 years (the time we have known him), but it was really nice to see where he is from.  Ilha Grande is a relatively small mountainous island with 3 or 4 small towns or villages scattered around the coast, which is has over 100 beaches.  The ferry from the mainland only goes to the town of Abraao, and in order to get to any other town you have to have your own boat or get on a boat from Abraao.  This was the most touristy place we have seen by far and the main street (there were only 2 streets, and no cars allowed) was lined with T-shirt shopes and tour agencies.  The Island is all about nature, and the shirts all said something about biodiversity, recycling, taking care of our Earth, etc.  Of course, Katie wanted on. The interior of the island is a maze of hiking trails, and you can also hike to the other towns, though it would take an entire day. We arrived in the afternoon, and only really had the next day to do anything.  We read about a good surfing beach called Lopes Mendes, and found a schooner that would go there, as well as a couple of surfboards to rent. That night, we ran into some girls we had met in Paraty, and went to bbq dinner with them on a beach.  You go up to the grill, and pick you want from the raw food table.  The spread included the usual suspects, as well as a row of freshly caught whole fish.

The next morning looked a little grey, but we had a trip to do and got onto the boat.  We rounded beautiful coves and passed tranquil beaches (not a good sign when you want surf) and landed in a wide beach with a little houseboat just off the coast. Turns out this is a floating restaurant. There was a little dinghy attached to a line that they used to pull in the customers from the shore.  The water was like a lake, and as soon as we hit the beach, the clouds rolled in and it started to rain. Perfect. We hiked through the woods with our boards to another beach which did have surf.  We heard legendary stories of clean waves, barrels, and no people.  The no people part was right.  The wind had picked up and the waves were really sloppy.  Plus it was really cold (the water and the air).  We went in and had fun getting pummeled and ripped around by the current.  We did manage to catch some waves too.  We walked back to the beach and tried out the floating restaurant.  $14 for fries!  enough said.  We were the poor Americans here and ordered beans and rice. It was delicious. Because of the bad weather, our charter boat ended up leaving 3 hours early.  Thank God. We got back to Ilha Grande, got some food and wandered the streets.  Our ferry to the mainland was early the next day so unfortunately for Katie, we could not go to the All-Night-Reggae-Party on the Beach. We also had a Marathon to do.
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