Xiahe: Covert pics of Labrang Monastery

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Trip Start Jul 17, 2009 Previous
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  Xiahe, Gansu, China
Wednesday, July 22, 2009

Another crap night sleep. Think I am turning in to Margaret Thatcher, surviving on 5 hours a night. We spent the evening going through Lizzie's terribly packed backpack, which contains almost everything one could ever want in a year's trip, such as fake tan, a FULL SIZE body brush, 500 bikinis and 4pairs of shoes. We threw quite a lot away and lightened the load, despite her reluctance, so now she won't have to have physio when she gets back home.

We intended to get up early enough for the guided tour of Labrang Monastry, but missed the tour group leaving (only because we were advised 10.15am but they left at 10am, how rude)... and then couldn't find the tour office. Good start. What they failed to advise us was that there was another tour at 3.5pm. Much better.

We had a quick mooch about Labrang Monastery, unguided, and watched all the locals turn the prayer wheels that are mounted along the perimeter. The wheels were invented and used so that the mostly illiterate Tibetans could pray without having to read anything. They all walk in a line, turning the huge wheels and chanting or singing to themselves. One of their ways to worship is to walk a full circle around any important building/temple/mountain and they try and do this at least once a day.

We spent the rest of the morning wandering around the town which is lined with little private stores run by local Tibetans, selling everything from jewellery, skinned animals, converse trainers and washing up bowls. What more could you need? We bought some traditional Tibetan souvenirs. I got a wooden mask that they use in festivals to ward off evil and Lizzie bought a gorgeous wooden box that was hand painted inside and out. Not sure how these will be transported home... I bought an umbrella because it was raining, promptly lost it 5 minutes later and had to buy another one.

In one of the shops there was  snake slithering around on the counter which is obviously quite startling. The guy then thrust it in my face, so I held it and it was quite nice. Not sure I'd ever want one for a pet... not very cuddly.

I don't think we are quite 'with it' yet - travelling wise - nor are we in the right time zone. The weather is freezing and I can't believe in 2 days time we are going to be sleeping outside in 0 degree temperature with the nomads!! We could barely sleep in our room last night because it was so cold! But we did watch The Secret Life of Bees on my laptop, which was great - thanks Earl.

At 3.15pm we headed off for the tour of the Monastery led by an English speaking monk. We met a guy called Marcus from Sweden (or somewhere like that) who joined us on our tour - so there was only 3 of us, which was much more intimate. The Chinese tour had about 4,000 of them, with their massive cameras and constant chatter. We were shown around all the private temples that are usually closed to the public and told all about Buddhism and the different sects throughout Tibet. They were quite forthright and adamant in stating they were NOT Chinese. Fair enough I say, I wouldn't want to be either.

Labrang Monastery is the most important Monastery outside of central Tibet and thousands of Tibetans make pilgrimage there every year. The monastery used to house about 4,000 monks, but after the Cultural Rev. there are now only about 1,200 - or less. I am sure I don't need to say what happened to them, you can imagine.

The Monastery was built in 1709 and consists of 6 main halls where the monks study scriptures, maths, astronomy, medicine and geography. The main hall is called the Grand Sutra Hall and can physically hold up to 4,000 monks. It was pretty impressive but you are not permitted to take photos inside, so I had to do some crafty covert ones - as I couldn't let it go undocumented.

After the Monastery tour, we went for some food with our new friend Marcus and sat amongst a building site while they freely welded and sawed up metal around us, completely void of any safety equipment, as usual. After dinner we played Shithead and listened to Michael Jackson on my laptop in our hotel bar, to the amusement of the staff and locals.

Tomorrow we head for Langmusi at 7.45am by bus. Another early morning. Hoping for a good night sleep.

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Paintings in the temples	Covert pic from a temple	3. Labrang Monastery	In our room
Covert pic: Sutra Hall	Labrang Monastery	Tibetan art	Our tour guide

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