Back in Perth
Trip Start
Sep 01, 2007
1
Trip End
Sep 09, 2007
Nannup, Australia
Saturday, September 29, 2007
We travelled well together and there always seemed someone to cycle with if you wanted company, or cycling the country roads alone knowing there would be company on arrival at our night time destination. Simon had done a great job in deciding on a route that maximised time on back roads, ensured scenic surrounds, went past many gourmet food and wine options, days not too long and camping grounds that had good hot showers (except for Sues Bridge) and camp kitchens. We were out of the tourist season which meant that the traffic was not a problem and those drivers on the road were, on the whole, incredibly considerate. Some city drivers could learn a thing or two from them.
There were many highlights and the odd challenge or two. For me highlights included riding the cycle path out of Busselton following Geographe Bay with blue sea and white sand close to our right. We also had our first encounter with a very large tiger snake sunning itself on the warm bitumen. Thanks to local Robert who guided us out of town. Spirits were high in anticipation of a week on the road and the weather was sunshine all the way to Dunsborough. Little did we realise that this was to fade away in the days after Margaret River and that the second half of the trip would be a wet one indeed.
We also enjoyed avoiding part of Caves Road by travelling 15 km on the rail trail from Cowaramup to Margaret River . This was well compacted gravel providing an achievable off-road forest ride even with full panniers. Definitely worth exploring if you are down that way.
Another highlight was the day from Margaret River to Augusta through the magnificent karri forest, with some great sweeping downhill runs to arrive at my favourite caravan park, Turner Caravan Park . The camp kitchen had scenic windows with views across the river one way and the paperbark area where our tents were nestled, the other way. I enjoyed exploring Augusta which I don't know well at all. A few off us took a morning ride heading out the 10km to Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse. I loved cycling without panniers out on this road to the wild south coast with some exhilarating downhills, rewards for the work of getting up them.
We had one wild camp at Sues Bridge . This conservation area is set in beautiful forest on the banks of the river; although most of us had had enough wet and did not feel compelled to find the river. We nearly lost Simon however who headed off for a quick wash at the river only to sensibly reverse his decision when he realised that he was likely to literally slip in via the muddy bank and probably float back to Augusta before we noticed he was gone. So although the weather was not too kind, two things were in our favour. The toilet block had an enormous veranda which allowed for clothes lines to go up and bike storage for some. But the night belonged to dinner when we were treated (well we actually had paid for this), to our own mobile wood fired pizza service provided by Cord on Blue's Charley and Lisa. Gourmet pizzas featuring local fetta, spinach, tomato, cheese, sausage, anchovies and much more just kept on coming out of the oven. We finished with a couple of sweet pizzas such as mandarin and chocolate. We left the camp kitchen with full bellies and crawled into tents for a damp night.
Our wettest day was the 60 km ride from Sues Bridge to Nannup. Rain jackets did not come off all day. The Brockman Highway is quite hilly on this run and although most of us met up for a brief lunch stop on the banks of the Blackwood River at Alexandra Bridge, we then spread out quite a bit for the final haul into Nannup. Hot showers and a pub meal restored us to good spirits. Maybe also the fact that 4 of the party that night slept with something way more substantial than a damp tent over our heads, also helped.
We tended to cook individually in the evening with good food supplies easy to find every day. I am not sure they were all gourmet feasts, but they were eagerly consumed. One pot cooking took on a whole new meaning with one member combining tinned beans, corn and fish and instant noodles. Not everyone's favourite combination but you could not question how this fuelled Devo's cycling the next day.
Kleber took off early a few mornings so he could combine the tour with some reconnaissance visits and meetings for next year's On Your Bike trip which will travel through some of this beautiful area.
Various relationships with bikes emerged with one person sleeping with their bike, another member seen to lovingly remove wheels only to put them back on and bikes being locked to camp tables in kitchen blocks. Some of us were content to leave our trusty bikes to the elements. I think we had about 6 flat tyres between us and half of those on one day experienced by one person. We did not have any major mechanical problems and people had obviously prepared well.
There is nothing quite like that first pedal turn of a fully loaded pannier bike on day one of a tour. For me there is the combination of: did I really mean to bring this much stuff - my bike weighs a tonne; to the thrill of knowing the simple pleasures of cycle touring. The freedom of being self supported with the open road ahead of me and a bunch of great people to share it with. Thanks to all who made it such a special week. The wet weather could not dampen that touring feeling although I have since invested in some overshoes to avoid the cold wet foot syndrome.
Jude
