Melting in Máncora...

Trip Start Oct 05, 2012
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Trip End Apr 01, 2013


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Flag of Peru  , Piura,
Saturday, December 8, 2012

...where it seems the sun doesn't stop shining and the sky is always blue ;-) OK, sorry to rub it in to those of you currently 'enjoying' snow and freezing temperatures but I haven't seen much sun in the last 9 weeks so it's very much a novelty for me as well!!

So, the cross border bus journey from Guayaquil to Mancora was actually painless. The CIVA International double-decker bus was comfortable enough as had leg rests and also 'semi-cama' seats which reclined almost far enough to rest on the knees of the person behind you, effectively rendering the table slightly useless as it consequently sat at a near 45 degree angle. Dinner was also an unexpected inclusion in the $17 ticket price, albeit consisting of a very dry cheese filled and sugar-coated empanada and a peach juice box. Still tasted good at approx 2am!! The previously described 'harrowing' experience failed to materialise as I think we must have used the new immigration complex at Huaquillas. The most harrowing part turned out to be stumbling rather blearily eyed of the bus at 1.30am, standing in a large room with lighting levels so bright and clinical they were definitely more suited to a hospital or laboratory, and feeling very frustrated when one of the 2 men sitting at the Ecuadorean desk seemed reluctant to do anything other than watch his colleague slowly stamp everyone's visas. Finally through, it was back on the bus to continue the journey south and, after a further police check where everyone had to get off and open all their luggage, I arrived in Mancora on time just before 5am.

Luckily, the bus was met by a small army of moto-taxis who were happy to sell the positives of their allied hotels and hostels. I chose one who promised a room near the beach, and was bundled into the mototaxi to make the bumpy journey to Guacamayo Bungalows. It was difficult to see much of the place in the dark but decided to give it a go as I figured I could always find somewhere else in the cold light of day if it really was terrible!! As it turns out the accommodation was fine. Very clean, with helpful and friendly owners, and also extremely quiet because of its location in the least developed part of town. This was definitely better than the discos and party atmosphere of the main centre, even if it meant opting for a mototaxi instead of walking after dark. My only criticism would be the lack of people as there were only 5 others - 3 Argentinians and another couple - so not many people to meet or talk to. On a positive note though, noone could (or would!) speak english to me so I had to speak only Spanish. One sure way to keep me very quiet I guess!! Talking to the Argentinians was also my first experience of the differences in their dialect compared to the northern countries on the continent. Some very confusing pronunciations which took a while to work out in the conversations we had... Atleast it's a head start though before I actually get to Argentina!!

Mancora itself is developed along the Panamerican Highway, which passes through and forms the central route lined with travel agencies, shops and restaurants/bars. Most of the development exists between the sea and the road so you are never too far away from the beach. I expected the beach to be truly stunning as Mancora is so well known for its beaches and surfing. However, I have to confess to being slightly disappointed... The beach to the north (near my accommodation) was relatively narrow due to the high tide line and looked more scruffy than anything. In the centre itself, it was also much smaller than expected and generally packed with people fighting for the small amount of space there was. I'd have to say that both Montañita and Canoa had much larger and nicer beach areas immediately adjacent to the town than Mancora... That said, if you have come here to surf the waves are quite spectacular. Fierce, so I'm not sure how beginners would fair, but watching the locals - who probably started surfing as soon as they could walk - really was amazing.

I also visited another beach called Playa Pocitas which is only 3km (or 5 soles) in a moto-taxi along a very bumpy, guarded road. This was much, much nicer!! Wide, deserted except for a handful of people, palm lined - what more could you want...? If I could choose again, I would probably stay here rather than Mancora, but am pretty sure the accommodation here isn't suited to those backpacking!! I enjoyed a long walk along the beach before attempting to sunbathe. I say attempt, because I survived all of 5 mins... The wind was so strong that a small dune had gathered to the side of my body, and the liberal application of sunscreen meant I was coated from head to toe in sand grains. Not nice, and I definitely wouldn't have lasted any longer had I not managed to sneak onto one of the sunbeds put out by a hotel on the beach. A much better way to spend the afternoon - although I still left with a considerable amount of the beach on my body, in my bag, and especially in my hair!!

So all in all, a nice relaxing start to my time in Peru. Something I will be very thankful for as I have to keep moving pretty fast to fit in all of the things I want to see and do before I arrive in Cusco for Christmas...
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Comments

Pigwig on

Was it here you burnt your bum? : )
Don't ride the horses, I'm sure they are just as loco as the mexican one I rode ..
Hello PERU!!!

curlsandtales
curlsandtales on

Totally inappropriate, but I guess I deserved it after the MOTB post on your FB wall... ;-) xx

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