Micky d's, kookoo for kookoo's
Trip Start Nov 06, 2006
54Trip End Jun 15, 2007
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Where I stayed
None of the Filipino cities we've visited yet has appealed to either of us, so the next day we're off to Kookoo's Nest, a teeny resort that Lonely Planet says is "the most isolated resort in Negros." Sounds perfect for us, and it is. Four charming bamboo beach huts on a sandy private beach, facing west for the glorious sunsets, and owned by a warm and welcoming couple, Nikki and Jamie. We settle in nicely for several days of pure R&R - wake up to the bright sound of birdsong, look out at the early morning waves as they gently roll in off the horizon, munch on the delicious thick-sliced home-made bread for breakfast (with strawberry jam - Todd's in heaven!), take a swim, read a few books, lounge around on the porch. We break things up with some fantastic scuba diving at Apo Island and just offshore on the house reef as well as some fine snorkeling off the end of the dock. Life really could not get any better than this. We're deliriously happy here.
We're torn between staying longer and moving on (awww - tough life!), but curiosity gets the better of us and we head off again to see what else we can discover. A few minutes outside of Sipalay we book a room at the quirkiest, wackiest place we've seen yet, the Takatuka Lodge at Sugar Beach. The zany colors and bizarre layout of the place are playful and kitschy, the staff is nice enough, and the perfectly sandy beach without a spot of seaweed or coral in sight makes for nice swimming. But it's anti-climactic after our experience of travel nirvana over the previous few days. The food's overpriced, the snorkeling trip is over deep water and challenging, and the visitors don't quite click with one another since there are so many weird nooks and crannies to hide in. We could have found more of interest here - there's a good hike nearby, a village to explore, another beach better known for snorkeling just up the way, but the afternoon rains that build up against the mountains here have us a little bummed and we still dream of finding an inexpensive tucked away cabana somewhere, so after a few days it's time again to move on from this freakshow habitrail with the 80's heavy metal muzak soundtrack.
Another bus and another ferry lands us on the island of Panay. In Iloilo (ee-lo-ee-lo) City, like a couple of addicts who haven't scored a hit in awhile, we practically run to the internet cafe, desperate for our e-fix after having been "dry" for over a week. E-mail is an illness, it really is. I frequently think about just disappearing for awhile like a Leave No Trace traveler, but keeping in touch is just too much fun! Anyway, one night here, just long enough to check up on a few things and make some travel arrangements and we're off for the nearby island of Guimaras.