Thrichur/ Thrissur, Kerala

Trip Start Oct 16, 2006
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20
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Trip End Feb 14, 2007


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Saturday, January 27, 2007

Everywhere in India seems to have two names - Trichur/Thrissur, Margao/ Madgaon, Calcutta/ Kolkata, Mumbai/ Bombay. Does anyone know why, is it to do with the British Raj and one name is old and one is a newer, Indian name?
I arrived in Thrichur at midday yesterday. It was creppy because there was a transport strike which thankfully didn't affect trains, just buses and tuktuks (these are autorickshaws by the way). I walked for an hour and saw hundreds of men, 4 women and no other foreigners. The staring was quite bad.
But not as bad as today!! My god, yesterday town was dead but today it is buzzing, and I am STILL THE ONLY FOREIGNER HERE it is so weird! Everyone is staring at me which makes me smile awkwardly as it is so weird. A few people have chatted to me and have been friendly recommending I go to this church and that temple etc. spoke to a few guys in a stainless steel shop (I forgot to mention I'm from a stainless steel city) who were quite cool. They asked me if I was with anyone else and I was honest and said no I was alone, to which they replied that I had guts and looked quite surprised. They said in Keralan culture women are never alone like I am now. I acknowledged this, comparing it to my culture saying that we are often alone and women do not have to be accompanied by men.
Then this other older guy came over and something he said sent shivers down my spine: "Do you know anything about Hinduism?" he said. I said yes I did and I was here to learn more about it, and India in general. But it was the way he said it and then looked at me, like I'd made a grave error travelling as a lone female to a culture I didn't understand. I felt like he could read my mind about how much of a culture shock I've found India. I fobbed him off by talking about Republic day, which is today. It was on 26th January 1950, 3 years after independence from Britain that India became a republic and is now the 'largest democracy in the world'. But I still felt uncomfortable and made a hasty exit after this.
Overall I saw 2 churches and 2 temples today and climbed up a big tower. Quite interesting but to be honest I wish I'd not come here, I stand out so badly and I cannot wait to leave. The Lonely Planet says it's the cultural capital of Kerala, but I think they should also say 'but despite the churches and temples no foreigners ever step foot in the place so if you are foreign, and a female travelling alone at that, avoid this place like the plague'. The only good thing is my cheapo hotel has great tv and free breakfasts.
Although now I've just remembered the breakfast was gruel. (I ordered porridge as over the past 3 months I've been eating delicious milk and oats honey and banana porridge all over India, but this stuff was made with old semolina type grain and tonnes and tonnes of water. It was grey brown gloop and I felt so grumpy eating it. I almost wanted to tell them how it should be made and go in the kitchen and make some myself. Maybe i'll give in tomorrow and have one of those indian breakfasts where everything is really oily, coconutty, fried and spicy, basically the opposite of what I feel like eating in the morning!
Anyway best be off, out into the lions den of staring, oh god give me strength, thank goodness I'm back to Goa tomorrow I CANNOT WAIT! And as bobster is there this also means this spell of lone travel will end for a few days...
 
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Comments

srthampi
srthampi on Jan 31, 2007 at 11:56PM

reasons for experience
see i feel bad u had a shocking experience in kerala. let me tell you tht even though its paraded as the cultural capital, beneath all tht there is full poverty and frustration among ppl.the joblessness is high and poeple are frustrated with financial problems and mass depression quite high.so u need to be careful, pshychologists have pointed out that finanvcial reason for depression along with sexual depression is a potent mix for sexual attack. in fact just a few weeks ago a western tourist was attacked , hit on the face witha a knife.
so take care, and do not venture inot lands just bcos u read it in a book which is printed for making mney to pub lisher that does not guarentee ur safety or life.
so take care, my friend,
srt

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