CVA - Volunteer Experience, Cairns, Australia
Trip Start
Nov 21, 2009
1
10
29
Trip End
May 31, 2010
Malanda, Queensland, Australia
Friday, February 5, 2010
Been incommunicado for two weeks. Working in Atherton Tableland - fertile farming land, volcanic lakes, waterfalls and rainforest. No internet, no phone.
Arrived in Cairns after two weeks in Koh Samui, took forever - 27 hours, dont ask me why, time difference and economy class. As much as I am loving being here, the plane journey's take their toll. Bangkok airport, too much time on my hands, so went for another Thai massage - it hurts - pleasure and pain....to compensate treated myself to a Jim Thompson silk sarong and some new sunglasses.
First night in Cairns, booked myself into Cairns Internationasl Hotel. had planned to do a reccy of Cairns but was so tired fell asleep. Next day I headed towards the CVA place (Conservation Volunteers Australia), at a place called Raintrees. Accommodation wasnt too bad, bunk beds, but at least the bedrooms had air conditioning. Had my induction, warned about snakes, plants, birds oh and the cyclone that happened to be approaching. Only a level one, heading in from the east, so it just heavy rain. Rained some more, thunder, lightening and then some more rain. It's all okay cause its only level 1, when it gets to 3 they said we call a number. A man comes to help us (apparently) and we get the mattresses off the bed, go into the bathroom and cover our heads. As you can imagine, I felt very comforted by this advice.
My new room mate. Jessica, a Korean girl (they all take a European name before they travel) really nice, friendly and we seemed to gel straight away. We had the weekend to ourselves so Jess and I went into Cairns on Saturday to book some activities. White water rafting and a trip to the Great Barrier Reef to scuba dive. I booked the trips through a Korean travel agent and got a much better deal thanks to Jess. Cairns is a fairly busy town, colonial looking in its architecture. Obviously lots of backpackers passing through as fairly cheap deals for meals etc . We had a walk round the town and then had a beer and something to eat $10 dollar meal deal, not bad. Whilst waiting at the bus stop to go back to CVA house, I looked up at the sky and it was covered with bats - fruit bats, some of them really big - was kinda freaky, like something out of a horror movie - have taken a pic for you to see so hopefully you can make them out. On the walk back home there were even bats hanging from the telephone wires. Met the rest of the guys staying in the house, mostly Koreans. They have to complete at least two weeks voluntary work before they can secure a job back in Korea, so most of them do this as part of their unuiversity studies. An american girl and a french chap - make up the ten people staying in the house. We all have to muck in and keep the place tidy and cook. Made spag bol for everyone, seemed to go down well. And yes I am the oldest person here, average age is 25. I'm young at heart, so not a problem for me. Early night as had to be ready to leave at 6.15 the next morning.
White water rafting down the Tully river. Picked up outside the YHA office at 6.30am. We were a bit worried that it might be cancelled due to the heavy rain, thankfully not. Coach trip was a couple of hours - looked like it was going to be a great experience, about 40 people in all. Jess and I were sharing a raft with 4 indian chaps who were working in Melbourne but had come to Cairns for a four day adventure package. So we were all set, kitted out with our helmets, life jackets, wet jackets, shoes and paddles. After a safety briefing we were off. It felt like something out of Apocolypse Now as the verges at the side of the river were so high, the scenery was amazing. Lots of waterfalls or Popo in Korean. It was a bit hairy in parts as the river had swollen with all the rain and was pretty fast in some parts. Lots of debris from the banks as well. However, it was the best fun. A quick pitstop for lunch, burger and a cuppa and we were back in the rafts for the last 10k run. Great experience. Got a CD of pics to share with you and you can probably tell from my face that Im not so confident (will upload when I get to internet cafe). Managed to stay in the raft for the whole trip although did get thrown around a bit. Laughed so much, absolutely soaking wet but didn't care. At one point we all had our arms around each other and sitting at the front of the raft then all of a sudden the raft tipped over and we were all overboard, was fun, adrenalin pumping. Free flowing down the river was an experience, my bottom kept hitting the rocks underneath - not so much fun. Afterwards we headed back to their office to get our pics and have a beer. Absolutely shattered but in such a good way.
We got dropped off back in Cairns and Jess and I decided it was time we tried some of the local delicacies. Kangaroo, Emu, Crocodile and Barramundi. Not so sure I would try them again, but when in Rome. All in all a great day out.
Monday morning and first day of our project. We had to be up and ready for 8.00am, kitted out for working. It was still raining. Our team leader Michael turned up and we had to each get our beds, wet weather gear, gumboots (wellingtons), tools, and of course our sleeping bags and clothes. We also had to take food with us for the week. Seemed like the trailor was packed to the brim and wouldn't close, so much stuff. Was excited as not sure what to expect from the week and probably slightly apprehensive. Had to purchase some gloves from CVA office - for planting trees and weeding. Was beginning to think this was going to be very hard work.
We set off heading for Malanda in the Atherton Tablelands - a 2/3 hour drive up a very windy mountain road. The scenery was pretty amazing although the drive was making a few people feel a bit car sick. There were 10 of us in all, including Michael the team leader and of course the trailer on the back. Not the quickest of journeys. As we climbed higher up the mountain we were in the clouds, visibility was pretty poor. It was clear that we were not going to be doing any work today so Michael took us to Kuranda - a sort of tourist village with a strong hippy element. Bought myself a funky top - I love zebra. Not cheap I hasten to add.
On the way to Malanda we stopped at Barron Falls, the two dams above Barron Falls were part of an earlier, smaller hydro-electric power station built in the early 1930's. This power station supplied electricity to Cairns and the surrounding area for almost 30 years. In 1963 the power station was relocated downstream to the present site near the base of the gorge and is now called the Barron Gorge Hydro. Hard to believe that this time last year it was almost dry, whereas today the falls were in full flow due to rain from Cyclone Oli. You can see the pics with me and all the gang. This was the first day that we had all really been together, so far so good and everyone was getting along pretty well.
We eventually arrived at our accommodation. Malanda football ground, what appeared to be the football changing rooms or some kind of social club. There was a kitchen, what could be described as a dining area and then a room which we were to sleep in. I don't think anyone was very impressed as there was silence around the room as we were all taking in our new home for the next week. The shower and toilets were outside - cockroaches, spiders and so many mosquitoes. Bit different from CVA house. You can see from the pics. One of the guys Geoff, who had taken a walk round the town and then come back described the place as a 'shit hole' within earshot of our team leader, I'm afraid I had to agree with him.
Once we had settled in, we went to check out the town. Had a pub and a pool table, so not all bad. The locals were really friendly and welcoming. Just about everyone I spoke to had an ancestor from Scotland, a grandfather,great grandfather - Johnston, Reid to name but a few.
Day 5 - Australia Day - was expecting some sort of celebration within the town, bunting, stalls, fireworks, typical aussie barby. Locals explained that they all tend to do their own thing. Its a public holiday but everyone has barbies at home. Also seems to be some confusion as to why they have an Australia day - some say its to celebrate Botany Bay 1766 - first settlers. The day changes each year - I think its just an excuse for everyone to eat and drink too much. As we were still unable to do anywork we went to Lake Eacham for a barbie. Was a volcanic crater that is now filled with water - however they have council barbie sites around the lake - great idea. Lake is home to turtles, fish, lizards oh and mosquitoes. I took a walk round the lake - 3k's - some amazing plants and trees. I think it was used by the Australian army back in the day and they built the simming pontoons around the lake for the officers staying there. No pics that day as forgot my camera (duh!).
Everyone starting to get a little bored - nothing to do in the evening when we get back to camp. The local creek is supposed to be home to a couple of platypus - didn't see any though. The accommodation is starting to feel like the Korean big brother house - everyone is making the most if it though.
Next day we visit Curtain Yew tree, over 500 years old. Hoping to see some tree kangaroos but am thinking they a bit like the scarlett pimparnel - elusive. The next day we actually went to work. A nature refuge about half hour from where we were staying run by a chap called Mike. He doesn't own the land but manages it. Has a number of cherry trees that he wants chopping down - refers to them as weeds. At last we start work. OMG I've never worked this hard in my life - chopping trees down, adding chemical to stop them from growiing and then dragging them to an opening to be collected later. The rainsforest is so densely populated its hard to cut through all the trees, and baking hot - humid. Have to wear long sleeves and trousers to protect ourselves from the sun and all the beasties that are around. By lunchtime we had cut down so many trees, didn't know I had it in me. We drove down to a little lake for lunch - a supposed platypus spot - no sightings. On the way back up Michael got the Uke stuck in the mud - was pretty funny to watch as every time he tried to get out he just made it worse. This seems to be a recurrring theme, 4by4s getting stuck in the mud.
After the days work was absolutely shattered. The chap who we were working for ws very happy - I should coco. We're doing the work for free!!! Have to say am having some issues with the fact that it is private land under the banner of 'nature refuge' - no public access. Not sure that this is the voluntary work that I thought I was signing up for. Can understand why some of the locals have issues with it - imports coming in buying the land, getting nature refuge status so no more farming or building can be done on the land. The environmental and tourism arguments put forward by the greenies are rather tenuous to say the least. Just my opinion.....We managed to get in another half days work before we were rained off. Hard work indeed. Mind you good way to lose some weight, so not all bad.
Visted another lake on the way back to base, again another volcanic crater. Stopped for lunch and had a walk around - more trees.
Really happy to get back to base and clean up. Had a pretty quiet Friday night as we were off to the Great Barrier Reef in the morning. Weather still not great.
Morning came and the weather was not on our side - was thinking our trip to the Reef would be cancelled. Headed to the terminal, myself, Jess, Johnny, Anderson, Chris and Johny's friend - all Koreans. We were assured by the comany that the trip would go ahead and that we should still be able to scuba dive. Onto the boat, and headed out to the reef. It was choppy, very choppy. I've never seen so many people be sea sick, they were dropping like flies. Not me I hasten to add, I got my sea legs at a young age. Koreans looking awful white. We eventually anchored at the reef (well about 40m away) but it was deemed too dangerous to even snorkel let alone dive. So an early lunch was called for - hahaha what a joke, people couldn't even stand up let alone eat. My appetite was fine so tucked in to barby style lunch - tasty. Around about 1.00pm they said we could snorkel - I hadn't really done it before so ws a bit nervous esp as the conditions were so rough. Anyway donned my stinger suit, all in one blue skintight suit, stops the jellyfish stinging you, life jacket and I was off. Snorkel on and in I go. One of the crew was in front of me and I was holding onto a rubber ring that he was pulling. Yes you may laugh, but the going was really tough and there was no way I would have got to the reef on my own. Wow, what a sight, such colourful fish, nemo, angel fish, coral and I got to see a shark as well. Was amazing. So glad I braved the elements to see it. Did feel like the Abyss at one point as we snorkelled over the edge of coral - massive drop - couldn't see the bottom. Loved it - stayed out as long as I could and then headed back to boat. By this time everyone wanted to have a go, so people were in much better spirits. The crew told us that we would not be able to scuba dive as conditions were too dangerous - the experience divers were able to go out, but not us. In a way I was quite glad that we couldn't. I managed to persuade my Korean friends to come back out with me and one of the crew and I showed them where to look. The looks on their faces when they got back was well worth the trip - they loved it. I met a couple of chaps on the boat, one guy who was Welsh, had welsh flag trunks, welsh tattoo and welsh towel. Anyway he managed a club in Cairns and invited us there in the evening.
After we got back to the reef terminal it was apparent that everyone was unhappy with the trip and wanted some kind of comensation for not being able to complete their experience, myself included. So myself and another girl - speaking for everyone - went back to the boat and explained the situation. The cost of the dive was $65 and they were only going to reimburse $20. Needless to say I was not happy with that, so phoned the operational manager - he offered me $20 and 20% off another trip - but this was just for me, not everyone. Well that was it, the soap box was out. In the end the OM had to come down to the terminal and eventually we were happy with what he offered but not before an argument or two. I can't believe he thought I was selfish enough to accept a deal for me and not everyone else - he called into question my integrity and I wasn't having that.......
Headed back home to get changed for our big night out. We hadn't been to a club in Cairns and it was some of the guys last night. I managed to get some free passes and free drink vouchers. We arrived at the Club about 9.30pm everyone got their first drink free and was very appreciative of my negotiation skills. We all had a good night - the crew from the boat turned up later and couldn't apologise enough for what had happened in the afternoon.
Sunday - rest day and washing. Ready for our next week on the Project - tree planting.
Set off back to Malanda on Monday morning - weather baking hot 35 degrees - hottest its been for the past 10 years - this is their wet season. Typical. Quickly unloaded and then headed out to Cloudlands - another nature refuge. On the way we stopped at the nursery to pick up the trees we would be planting - 1000 in all. Met David, the owner, again private land, no public access. I did feel quite angry, I felt that I had beed misled. It was all starting to feel a bit like slave labour. We started our tree planting - health and safety in the UK would have had a field day. So hot and so steep, again back breaking work. We planted over 400 trees in two days. I was knackered, sore hands, feet and legs ached. We had to dig all the holes manually. Yet we still soldiered on - by the end of the week we had planted 1020 trees. Ive taken lots of picks so you can see for yourself. Apparently the rainforest was home to possums, tree kangaroos, rare birds - never saw any! Maybe we were just unfortunate, maybe we were too noisy, who knows. By the end of the week everyone had enough - was the hardest work I have ever done - but we did it and Dave baked us a cake. He was of course very appreciative, as you would be. Apparently some council chaps who had been working on the site the year before were laughing at the thought of us planting on the steep slopes - they didn't complete their work. Mmmm something not quite right here. Will ensure that I feedback my issues etc to Real Gap.
We were sharing our accommodation with the Malanda Rugby Club - the guys would come down and train on a Tuesday abnd Thursday night. Was fun watching them train, they hadn't had a team in MaLanda for thirty years, so had employed a PT to help them train. I dont think some of them had ever done a proper workout in their life. No pics am afraid.
Forgot to mention that in Malanda on a Thursday night they have a pool comp - we all entered but didn't win - didn't let myself down, played pretty well. Beat some of the local boys....rugby team as well. Scotland wins again.
Was pleased to get back to base. Had to head off straight away - they wouldn'e even let me have a shower. Booked myself into the Shangri La by the Marina - five star hotel so needed it after my two weeks roughing it. Heading to Adelaide next week, more voluntary work - wildlife park this time. I'm going to be super fit after this, have already lost some of the weight I was carrying before I left. Not all bad.
My number whilst Im in Australia is 0416419966. Will keep this number until I head to New Zealand on 5th March.
So thats it for now, brings you up to date with my travels, hope you are all well and in good health. Will be in touch again soon.
Love you lots
Shirley-Ann xxxx
