Trekking the Annapurna Circuit
Trip Start
Sep 30, 2006
1
28
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Trip End
Jan 16, 2010
I arrive in Pokhara, several hours north of Kathmandu, to join my guide and porter to trek the Annapurna Trail. The flight over the Himalayas and Annapurna mountains is absolutely breathtaking. Flying through the clouds with the mountains almost next to my window tells me exactly how high it is on the roof of the world. Gorgeous views stop me from talking to anyone on Bhudda airways, and almost erases the craziness of trying to get a boarding pass at the KMD airport domestic terminal, which I can only equate to the TV news scenes of African poverty victims grasping at the UN trucks for food. Asian people do not know the concept of lines, and so once there is an airline representative at the desk everyone waiting for the Pokhara flight lunges towards the people at the little kiosk. Having learned that western politeness gets one nowhere, I also fight my way through the mass of people and up to the makeshift ticket desk. Once I make eye contact with the airline rep, he takes my ticket immediately, handles my luggage, and processes me through. Prompt service for being foreign. However, that luck doesn't last as the weather has clouded Pokhara in fog and we don't fly for another four hours. I can't begin to explain to you the pure boredom of being stuck in the KMD domestic terminal for 4 hours. No food, no water, and trying my best not to use the bathroom make for a long morning. Finally, the flight leaves and I see the mountains in their glory. Now I am ready for my trek. Due to my airline ticket which has me flying out of Nepal on Dec. 4, I cannot do the 21 day full Annapurna circuit. I choose the 5 day abbreviated return trek from Nyapul to Ghorepani, and the shorter trek turns out to be a fortunate option. My guide Blair in China warned me that Nepali men were quite forward to western women, and that if I was going trekking on my own, I would get "offers". But I wrote that off, as I hadn't had any trouble in Kathmandu and didn't expect any with my guide. My peaceful little world of travel was about to change, as within minutes of meeting Ram, he wanted me to come visit him back in Kathmandu. Then he told me what a nice picture for my trekking permit. Next, he wanted to buy me a beer that night - okay that I fell for - normal get to know you proposition. I soon was barraged with the near constant clatter of "I would like to have a dance with you", "come back and stay in my apartment with me in Kathmandu, I live alone." or the best was, after I had explained my annoyance with my guide to a fellow Israeli hiker while sharing a pot of relaxing ginger tea, "You are tired. We go to sleep now." After this the Israeli looked at me with an understanding look of sympathy and wondered what I would do. So I did what any woman would do to an idiotic proposal from a man. I laughed in his face. I wasn't trying to be rude, but I just couldn't believe this guy. So I laughed and I laughed and I laughed. And I finally decided to just forget about him and make friends with Tenzing, my porter. He and I got along famously, especially after I lent him my Ipod. After that I was able to focus on the tremendous views of Fishtail Mountain, which has never been summited.
