Welkom by Namibië!
Trip Start
Sep 30, 2006
1
33
89
Trip End
Jan 16, 2010
Where I stayed
The Cardboard Box
I arrive in sunny Namibia after a 3 hr flight over southern Africa to be greeted by a big, smiling man dressed in safari clothes, just like on TV. He kind of looked like Steve Irwin, only a bit older and with an Afrikaans accent. I slowly start to digest the complex history of the country that I've just befriended. A German colony in 1884, there were thousands of atrocities against local tribespeople, mainly the Bantu speaking Herero people, when they revolted against colonial domination. Now, the Herero make up just 7% of the Namibian population of just over 2 million. After the Germans left Namibia in 1915, the South Africans took over and didn't leave until forced by international pressure - the apartheid government's ignored a 1974 UN Security counsel resolution requiring them to transfer power - but Namibia finally became its own independent nation (the world's most recent) after apartheid, in 1990. The current population speaks Afrikaans as its most common language, while English is the official tongue. There is still plenty of German spoken by the white population, and native languages of the Herero, Nama and Oshivambo people. In addition to the history lesson, I also learn about farmers and "canned" hunting. Not a pleasant story. Landowners with vast acreages of land acquire wild animals to roam on their ranches. Some of these are encouraged practices, allowing the animals live peacefully and encourage guests to visit the game reserve. Others are illegal and vile, drugging big game like lions and leopards so hunters can bring home a trophy. Sometimes when traveling it is hard to hide your feelings, of the ways of the country you are in. I was disgusted by this practice and learned it takes place all over Africa. The best I can do is tell people about it and raise the roof. Most conservation organizations, and the governments are working to stop these criminals. I also learned there are also many people working to help protect the wild animals of the continent. Most folks who live here admire and respect the Big Five - lion, elephant, water buffalo, leopard and black rhino sharing the same space, but animal conflicts were everywhere. I was excited and impatient to get out and see these and all the wildlife living in Africa. But for now, I would explore the capitol city of Windhoek. The city is sunny, suprisingly clean, and well laid out. I walk around, looking at the shops and streets, but it being close to Christmas a lot of folks have gone home. So I head to mine. I stayed at a comfortable, friendly hostel called The Cardboard Box. http://www.ahj.addr.com/facilities.html It served good, cheap food all day, eliminating the daily chore of finding a grocery. And better yet, to cope with the hot African afternoons, this gem of a place had a swimming pool and a patio bar. This is where I spent all my time at the Box. Swimming and drinking Windhoek, the local, quite delicious brew, for all of 80 cents. Since Namibia is the only former German colony in Africa, these guys know how to brew good beer! Brewing for over a hundred years here in Namibia, because the imported European beer did not hold up well to the African heat. In any case, Windhoek is brewed to German purity standards. I thought it was perfect for the climate, and decent tasting. So refreshing in the hot African sun. I met a couple of nice guys from Canada and France at the pool, and we make plans to spend our evening at Joe's Beer Garden - you can see a theme developing here. After another crazy, death defying taxi ride, 6 of us pile out of the 4 seat car to our destination. This turns out to be a fantastic place, with tiki huts over the huge bar area and each individual table. If one is so inclined, you can order ostrich, springbok, and other exotic flesh. I held out for the African salmon, which was awesome indeed - succulent and tasty. We talk about where we're headed next, global politics, and how to get back to our hostel at the end of the night. One of the guys, Alex is from Mahone Bay, Nova Scotia, where I've spent some great times. I'd like to learn more about his escapades in Botswana, but alas I'm off to safari. Detachment is yet another of the lessons of life on the road!!
Comments
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