Day 4 - Nairobi ni baridi sana
Trip Start Aug 07, 2007
68Trip End Nov 07, 2007
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It's raining (as it has been since I arrived) and bitterly cold (although I think it may be me as I was the only one wearing ALL my clothes, jacket, hat and gloves last night at dinner).
Beard: Designer Stubble
Distance Travelled: 760km
Frame of Mind: Hopeful
So a summary of so far:
Day 1: Didn't actually make it out of Mwanza till 5:30. A little late meaning I was never going to make it to Musoma by nightfall
So I arrived at Ramadi (or Lamadi, depending on the day) and smashed my head repeatedly against the door frames at the 'midget' guest house. Is now cut and beeding atthe top. Hair is useful for protection. No locks on the doors. Was v apprehensive of my 5,000,000 USD when I went out to get chips mayai for the last time (TZ fast food - is simply a chip omlette but is so much more!).
Day 2: Left for the border early doors. Tanzania is truly beautiful. The hazy sunrise lighting the rolling hills as I crossed the Mara river - much like 2 million wildebeest before me - was the highlight of this leg.
Breakfasted in Tarime, 10km from the Kenyan border. Spent 10 minutes extracting goat remnants from my teeth then went to the border.
Tanzanian customs and immigration a dream (although did try to bypass customs cos they wanted to keep my registration docs...then got sent back by Kenya)
So only made it ti Kisii. Which is a bit like Reading in the 80s. I'll leave it at that. Still an unimpressive 170km today.
Day 3: All this morning driving is all very well but it is a bit chilly at 90kmph. Have started wearing 2 pairs of trousers and all my tops. Still a bit chilly. The roads are fantastic. Been on mud for 20km only. Nearly had a hiccup in Sotik when a truck pulled out in front of me but I Eddie Kidded it out of the skid to rapturous applause and berated the driver in my best (and worst Swahili) much to his bemusement. Stopped for coffee in Narok. Felt very much like I was in the French Alps having a mid-morning-ski chocolat chaud.
The sceneryis incredibly varied. I passed through boulder strewn savannah akin to Mwanza; rolling verdant feudal hills of Rwanda; dense green sugar plantations of Jinja, Uganda; sparse moorland of Wales; even more desolate moorland of Ukraine (minus decomissioned nuclear reactors); and finally to the hedgerow lined farmland of the home counties (very colonial)
Arrived in time for lunch in Nairobi. Traffic is scary. Smelly. Much as I remember it. I will have to spend too long here getting visas etc. Is cold even off the bike. Hair is useful for insulation. Is also raining. Set up camp at Upper Hill Campsite. V nice.
Have written too much already but will fill you in on the tedium and frustrations of visa hunting in NBO later....