Important People and Varkala
Trip Start
Jan 10, 2010
1
5
6
Trip End
Feb 05, 2010
Loading Map
Map Options
Show trip route
Hide lines
Trivandrum, Kerala, India
Tuesday, January 19, 2010
Varkala
I look up, following the squawk, chatter and whistle of birds above to the massive palm trees swaying in the wind. Thud. A Coconut drops 2 feet away from me. As the light fades, the rhythmic roar of the waves seems to get louder, waves crash into shore with a power that says not to mess with them. I am sitting on the balcony of my tiny beach hut watching the sun gradually set. When the daylight has almost completely gone, tiny twinkling lights appear in the distance one by one until there is a whole row across the horizon, like candles floating on a pond. They are the boats of the local fishermen. After dark, the sea takes on a more sinister persona. I listen to the waves in the darkness sensing each crash and tumble, pause, quiet, and crash again.
I’ve been in Varkala for 2 days now, still revelling in the good fortune that brought me here. Varkala lies unashamedly in the land of pure, unadulterated backpackerstan. Hippie cafes, tour agencies, bars, Internet cafes and book swaps cling to the picturesque cliff side walkway with a beautiful curve of sand below. Skimpily dressed backpackers parade around in packs deciding whether to go to the beach first or partake in some seaside yoga, an ayurvedic massage, or a skinny latte first. This is my kind of place. My wooden beach hut is in Odayam, a 20 minute walk along the coastal path and beach from Varkala cliff. Odayam’s beach is perhaps not as nice as Varkala but the lack of people and laid back feel make up for that. Odayam is still a typical Keralan fishing village, every morning production lines of fishermen can be found on the beach rolling up their enormous fishing nets ready for the evenings fishing ahead.
I spend a few days reading, attempting a yoga course (but giving up when I realise I am on a different planet than the others on the course who spend hours meditating each day..) and wandering around. I am completely frustrated by the huge waves rolling in, every time I attempt to swim I get wiped out, but I am content even watching the wonderful Arabian sea. At night I walk back to Odayam by torchlight listening to the waves crash. It’s a beautiful walk, but at night it does become quite a challenge since the path only goes so far and its pitch black. One night I am struggling to find the pathway with my torch when a man leaps out of a shadows, I shrink back, but he has only come to tell me I am heading for the rocks rather than the pathway! I immediately feel guilty for even considering he had bad intentions when I have only been shown warmth and kindness from Indian people.
