Sunrise Beach

Trip Start Apr 24, 2012
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Trip End Ongoing


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Flag of Tanzania  , Dar es Salaam,
Friday, October 19, 2012

Sunrise Beach (Second time around)

Driving in Dar Es Salaam is a nightmare. Like Carlos says, "you just have to “throw the car in  and don't make eye contact", even if it means in front of the buses, otherwise you will not move an inch. Traffic comprises of so many different kinds of wheeled things,  other than the norm. This means you need extra eyes and ears to navigate through these streets. Which, for the most part, is under construction, or badly pot holed. Not forgetting to mention that in true Kamikaze style , everyone overtakes on a solid line, makes a two lane road up to a 4 lane road depending on the width of the “vehicles” on the road at that specific time. 

Never the less, we got to the Shoprite Dar with time to spare. Let me just stop here to say, we really don't know what we have in SA with all the shops and products we have to choose from.  You cannot believe what a treat it is to shop at Shoprite in Tanzania.  Not because they are so great, simply cause are the only store to shop at, that resembles a grocery store.  Forget about getting cheese in Zambia or Tanzania! Meat you can buy – at your own risk.  Eggs although being very expensive, are mostly “frot”. On average I would buy 12 egg’s and only be able to use 4.  At least the basics are all there and a few chocolates (mostly Bounty, Kit Kat, or if you lucky a slab or two), and only seldom does one find Chips like Lays.  Shampoo can cost you the equivalent of R100. We bought what we needed and paid R3000 for supplies that would have cost R1500 max in SA.  We managed to get two whole chickens, a packet of Boere Wors and a small packet of Beef Strips.  More than we bargained on.

In Tzn you can buy beer, wine and other drinks anywhere.  Also in supermarkets like Shoprite.  Kilimanjaro and Safari are the two local beers that Carlos enjoys.  We also found a fantastic Mango juice made by Azam and a Cocopine that is most refreshing.

We have been filling up our 160 L water tanks wherever the water seemed OK.  This would be used entirely for cooking and cleaning.  We have not needed to use our water purification tablets anywhere.  We simply boil the water a bit longer when we make coffee.  Other than that, bottled water can be bought anywhere – quite literally.

Another thirst quencher is the coconuts – also available everywhere – that the vendors skillfully shop open for you to enjoy as fresh as nature intended.  It is surprising what quantity of “coco water” is in each one.  One is enough for the both of us.  The “lekker” part is to eat the soft creamy coconut flesh before discarding the coco shell.

Having done that – the next task was to make it through the traffic once again and to get to Sunrise Beach in one piece.  Sunrise Beach would be the first place in the 6 months of travel that we would stay at twice.  Driving up to the gate I could not help to take note of the almost “homie” feeling I had.  To be let into the gate without a paper and to be greeted like family by the old man that is the “caretaker” at the tented camp section. Anything familiar is such a treat.

We had to make haste to set up camp and to clear the car of EVERYTHING before going to service the next morning.  A good exercise as this gives one time to arrange things.

Carlos would have to tackle the traffic to Toyota early morning and there after try to have the two tires fixed at Dunlop – the very same tires that were “fixed” in Arusha. 

I would stay to mind the cargo and to do the normal.  Hand washing laundry (so good at it already), cleaning of fridge and freezer and the kitchen.  I love this.  It feels like the only kind of control I have whiles traveling.  If Carlos was not back by the time I finished I would sit and watch Grey's Ser 7 without feeling guilty. LOL

Carlos spent the best part of the day at Toyota.  He said he just did not feel confident to go walking around to while away the time.  It is a madhouse on the streets of Dar.  Eventually when presented with the bill, even though still under warranty, the salesman got sticky and wanted proof that he was the owner of the vehicle.  Having removed all from the car – he had none.  Imagine the frustration.  He had already done the transaction on the credit car and walked off with it to boot.  Carlos eventually got the cashier or bean counter to locate the chap. He was instructed to hand over the credit card and complete the paperwork – he took his time doing this just to prove a point…..Imagine the Chilean’s fury!

This was not going to be the end of his foe’s.  Dunlop is a block or two away from Toyota.  He got in no problem.  They were however fitting a new heavy steal gate to the premises.  This malfunctioned and could not open to let him out once the tires where done.  So again – He had to wait.  Our phones stopped working a week or so before this so he could not let me know and I could not phone to find out if all was ok. 

Back at the ranch, rain decided to come down in buckets for about 45 min.  This meant a quick new setup of a washing line under the tents canopy.  Fortunately most was dry already.  With Carlos being held up I watched Grey's to my hearts content.  Only to realize at some point that he is taking unusually long and what if he did not arrive back? I had very little money on me and no working phone.

An SMS managed to come thru to say that he was on his way but was stuck in traffic again.

Later while we were having dinner three SA Roof Top’s arrived.  It was amazing to hear them speak in Afrikaans!  They are from Cape Town and had been on the road for 6 weeks.  So, we had SA neighbors for a night.

Next morning was a “gedoente” to get everything back into and on top of the car.  After an exchange of travel tips – we greeted our country men and the gracious caretaker.

Before getting to the open road we would have to go over with the ferry – on a Saturday with only one of the two ferries in working order.  A mission to say the least. 

Carlos took us to the quiet side of town, Toure road, where all the embassies are and where the Waterfront is.  This pleased me no end and I was going to be able to buy the one and only thing worth buying for our little Layla.  A small back pack – a Owl – that she can take with when she and mom goes to gym.  So “totally over the moon”.

We are heading for Tan Swiss Campsite between  Mikumi and Udzungwa Parks.
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