Hola de Peru

Trip Start Apr 30, 2008
1
6
30
Trip End Apr 17, 2009


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Tuesday, June 3, 2008

Our brief time in Peru was a whirlwind. We arrived quite late in Lima and had an early morning flight to Cusco. Based on the scary experiences Candy and many others have had in Lima, we took the advice of the tourist booth in the airport and joined a few dozen others who slept in the Lima airport. As Mom and Dad Smith can testify from seeing our credit card charges at Starbucks, etc., the airport was nice. Still, we hope we can avoid spending another night in an airport going forward.

Cusco was our base for travels within Peru. The altitude of the city is over 12,000 feet. We were winded when we checked into our hotel and took the advice of our travel doctor to drink coca tea to cope with the effects. Coca tea looks like water with a few bay leaves in it. It seemed to work and we grew to almost like it. In fact, we think we will send some coca leaves back home with our next package of souvenirs (Curt, thanks again for picking up and storing our packages. We will see you when we get back--- or when you get out---which ever comes first.). 

We did not spend much time in Cusco. After booking our tickets to Macchu Picchu, we headed to Lake Titicaca. As Candy had already seen the Peruvian side of the lake, we decided to see the Bolivian side. Unfortunately, at the border, we found out that Bolivia had recently decided to charge Americans a lot for a visa (after our guidebook was published in late 2007). We, and 3 other Americans, decided to head back to the Peruvian side.

The highlight of our time on the lake was spending time with the Uros people. The Uros built these amazing floating islands out of reeds to isolate and protect themselves from the Incans and Aymaras on the mainland. This place simply defies descriptions. To get some sense, look at the wikipedia entry: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uros.

We found one island where we could spend a very cold and dark night (solar panels light a few fluorescent lights on the island). The island was "squishy" when you walked and waves moved the island like a giant water-bed. Nevertheless, the Uros raise pigs, turkeys, and even trout in special "ponds" on the island (once again, the influence of Canadian cuisine follows us on the trip--trout from Canada were planted in Lake Titicaca and are now a local favorite). 
Candy definitely bonded with the women on the island. Now, Candy too has attempted to adopt a local hair style.  More importantly she was able to spend time with women from many generations on island and learned about cooking methods both traditional (wood fires on a reed island, amazingly) and modern (propane stoves). Ray spent a lot of time watching the daily lives of the Uros (building houses or hauling in more reeds to build boats or expand the island). He did get to share a snack of, yes, the ubiquitous reeds with young Alex. Peruvian cuisine left a bit to be desired. We had one really cool meal in a restaurant that was part archaeological ruin (the chef had to cross a plank over a pit to get to the kitchen) and a fire hazard (the floor was covered with straw and the main cooking enterprise was a homemade, wood-fired adobe oven). Over alpaca kabobs and alpaca pizza, we got to know a German man who had visited his distant relatives in Jordan, Minnesota. (We later ran into him at Macchu Pichu. Based on our recommendation, he too is planning to stay with the Uros people).
Our curious encounters with large cutlery on public transportation continued in Peru. On the very long trip back from Lake Titicaca to Cusco, a women boarded the bus, unwrapped the blanket she had tied behind her back, and started hacking up what we believe was part of a pig with a giant cleaver to sell to people on the bus. It seemed like most Peruvian women carried a large pacel tied in a blanket behind them. You never knew if the package was a baby, potatoes, or some meat product in some stage of its lifecycle.

A lot of our time in Peru was spent on some sort of public transportation. Taking the long train to see Machu Picchu at sunrise required us to spend far too much time in the tourist trap town at the base of the mountain. But Machu Picchu was worth it.

By getting to the site at dawn, it almost seemed that we had the place to ourselves (even though we were the third of seven buses that got to the site at 6AM). As the clouds/fog rolled in, we hiked out of Machu Pichu on the Inca Trail. The uphill climb on the stone trail seemed easy (thanks to the volcano-training and coca tea perhaps?). When we got to the top, the clouds had cleared and we had an amazing view down at Machu Picchu.
With the clouds no longer around, Ray´s fear of heights appeared. It didn´t help when we met a woman on the trail covered in dirt who said she had fallen off the trail (about 40 feet down) and another women who turned back due to her fear of heights.

Candy took some amazing photos of orchids and other plants along the Inca Trail killing the battery of our camera along the way.  




The whole experience was simply amazing for Ray. Even though Candy had seen Macchu Pichu before, she was also able to have wonderful new experiences as well. 

After returning from Macchu Pichu, we headed to Ecuador. We have almost three weeks here, so it may be a bit before we update the blog. Thanks for keeping in touch with us. Your postings and messages bring smiles to our faces.
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Comments

michellej
michellej on

Spectacular Photos!
Hola! Wow! Beautiful photos you guys! Pictoras muy bonita! It looks like you are having an amazing time!Raymundo - love the mustache! Candita, love the hair! You guys look fabulous - can't even tell you are living out of a backpack!! Minnesota has had tons of rain, we are hoping for a warm up soon. Erin the intern brings great treats and Gary S. has warned Brian that he may replace him with Erin if he doesn't start bringing in some good food to share- so no worries about work - but Brian better watch out!! :) Enjoy Ecuador! Hasta Luego!

jwojciechowski2
jwojciechowski2 on

Hey you guys!
I'm amazed by the photo's and completely jealous!! It is about 100 degrees here and I'm in the 'packing' mode. Michael is in MN and has begun work...loves it! The kids and I are finishing school and cleaning up! I hope you are healthy and it appears very happy! Are you home sick yet?? Missing your own bed?

Later gator
Julie

patrick_stewart
patrick_stewart on

Great reading!!
Hey Candy and Ray - sorry I haven't contacted you earlier, but I couldn't figure out how the website worked (yep, a political science Ph.D. doesn't do much for basic computer skills!) - but it looks like you're having a great time (and looking good doing it!). Keep up the great posts (love the pictures and very good travel writing!)!!

Hopefully I'll see you up in the hills of Fayetteville down the road (although it may be a bit too exotic).

Patrick, Jennifer, Duchess and Gracie

piggy14
piggy14 on

grandma ryan
mom just came down and checked out your trip so far, she really enjoyed it. took a long time on my dial up. she says hi... would not do this herself. love ya

cyndys
cyndys on

Missing You
You two are going to be in such great shape when you get back. So incredibly beautiful and I just watched a show on the Travel channel last week about Macchu Picchu and Cusco (which I had never heard of before you said you were going there) :) I hope that you are finding some healthy food that you can actually eat. Keep staying safe and keeping us up to date. All our Love...

juliezub
juliezub on

Fourth of July
Greetings happy travelors!! It is so fun watching you travel around the world and reading about all of your great experiences. I wanted to wish you a happy Independance Day. I'm sure, wherever you are that day, it will be much different than the parades with fire trucks & tootsi rolls, the MN Fireworks and the pot luck picnic with relatives. Take care--I miss you!

Jules

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