Campobello Island - The Secret is out!

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Trip Start Jun 09, 2011 Trip End Sep 14, 2011

  Campobello Island, Maine
Wednesday, June 8, 2011

The northern part with its ledges and squat hills resembles the coast of Scotland. One can almost envision a bagpiper appearing through the fog as he paces around historic Head Harbour Lighthouse, which bears the damark of the St. George Cross, taken from the British Union Jack. St. George being the patron saint of England.  Light keepers used to live on the lighthouse, often marooned by the tides from the mainland but always maintaining a steady vigil on providing a welcoming and directional beacon for the fishermen bound for home.

The south resembles England with its gentle fields filled with ferns and flowers but the most magical part is the drive to Liberty Point in the Roosevelt Campobello International Park. You can drive your vehicle down the narrow road which seems to conjure up visions of faeries and gnomes, shrouded mysterious ponds of water, all tempered by soft wisps of fog dreamily wafting over the thick dense forest.  The ocean is never far from sight.

Campobello is a nature lover's paradise. It is a home for photographers, hikers, artists, musicians, writers, lighthouse lovers, bird watchers, flora and fauna seekers, fishermen, sailors, whale watchers, and people who just want to get away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.  It is a well kept secret but one precious to the many visitors who come to the island year after year after year. 

This island can seem to be at the end of the world for some. It is far away from the hurried rat race of society as well as removed from the mainstream, at the end of the industrialized line, cities, water parks, tourist traps and the like. It remains unspoiled, charming and enchanting to most even in 2010. Campobello is a Canadian island, only a short distance from Maine, USA. Connected to the mainland of the USA by a short bridge which spans the "narrows" as one crosses the bridge one can immediately see the beauty of the island.

As one crosses the bridge from Lubec, Maine, in order to get to the island, one must pass through Canadian Customs. Friendly, well trained customs officers try to make the cross over as easy as possible. You are now advised to bring proper identification I.E. passports, medical shot certificates for pets, etc. Returning to the U.S.A. one must pass through the American customs and you will also be asked to provide proper identification.

The island’s history is rich with visitations from North American Natives who left huge piles of clam shells as evidence of their stay. French explorer Samuel de Champlain sailed through Passamaquoddy Bay on his way up the St. Croix River, the boundary between the USA and Canada. The island’s recorded history however, begins in 1767.

The island was granted to Captain William Owen by Lord William Campbell, the British governor of Nova Scotia. Named “The Principal Proprietary of the Great Outer Island of Passamaquoddy”, Captain Owen chose to rename the island Campo Bello – as he remarked – “part complimentary and part punning on the governor’s name.” Also there is no doubt that the beauty of the island is reflected in the name. Campo Bello being, the Spanish and Italian equivalent of British fair field! And fair the island is!

Owen and his family ruled their island kingdom for the next 114 years or so. Under their rule the island was a feudal fief of a dynasty of Welsh seamen. Seven years after Owens’s death his widow decided to sell her rights to Campobello to a group of American businessmen. With over a million in capital they intended to develop the island into a fabulous summer resort for the wealthy upper class residents of New York, Boston and Montreal. However the resorts, although a boon to the island economy eventually fell victim to factors such as World War 1, servant problems, income tax and the motor car. While it lasted the resort community on the southern end of Campobello boasted of many spacious luxurious cottages and three successful hotels.

Among the visitors in 1883 were James and Sara Roosevelt who brought their one year old son Franklin, the future president of the USA with them to enjoy summers on the island. They liked Campobello so much that they purchased land overlooking Friar’s Bay and built their own cottage.

As a youngster, Franklin Roosevelt spent his summers on the island and it is on the island that met his future wife Eleanor. In his fortieth year he contracted polio. This illness proved to be a great misfortune and a source in his greatest achievement in overcoming its debilitating effects. Franklin Roosevelt’s character, courage and humanity were developed on Campobello in the formative years. The legends of Campobello during his boyhood and his love of his “beloved island” will forever celebrate the adventures and habits of his boyhood.

Because of his devoted love of the island as well as his role in shaping his future, a tribute to his memory was dedicated in his honour and became the world’s first International Park. The Roosevelt Campobello International Park was established in 1964 to safeguard his legacy and to give visitors an opportunity to experience the island. It has become the main attraction for thousands of visitors who yearly tour the Roosevelt Campobello International Park. It is jointly funded and operated by the USA and Canada.

Encompassing twenty six hundred acres, or most of the southern end of the island, the park is open to visitors seven days a week from the end of May until mid October.  As well as Franklin D. Roosevelt’s former summer home which is now a superb museum, the park consist of four other restored cottages from the summer colony era, a visitor’s center, and a natural area which includes scenic hiking trails and two car drives. Recently a dock has been added to the premises as well as the acquisition of the Adams Estate which was transferred to the RCIP in 2010 by the New Brunswick Provincial Government.  Non-profit, medical, educational, scientific and international governmental committees as well as Elder Hostel groups regularly use the Park’s facilities.

The Park's spectacular flower gardens are a huge drawing card for the many visitors who flock to see them.

Head Harbour Lighthouse (also known as East Quoddy) is another main attraction on the island. Preserved and maintained by FRIENDS OF HEAD HARBOUR, a local committee dedicated to this project, it is known locally as Head Harbour Light. This historic Lighthouse stands majestically overlooking the treacherous waters of the Bay of Fundy. Although now automated, it once was occupied by light keepers and their families. Accessible only 1 ½ hours before and 1 hour after low tide, it is an extremely popular and scenic site. Each year this lighthouse attracts thousands of visitors. Many take time to venture across to the lighthouse, negotiating steep ladders, maneuvering over jagged rocks and slippery sea weed to get a closer look. Head Harbour Lighthouse is the most photographed lighthouse in the world and is also one of the best land based whale watching spots in the area.

The light station at Head Harbour, one of the oldest light stations in Canada, has a long history
as an aid to navigation in the Bay of Fundy and Passamaquoddy Bay.  The first light in the region was the American West Quoddy Light, established in 1808 on the Maine coast. The second light established in Canada was in 1829 at Head Harbour, where it was felt that there was enough traffic and trade to warrant a lighthouse that would save lives. An upgraded fog alarm was installed at Head Harbour in 1880. In 1885 a second light was established at Mulholland Point near the site of the bridge to Maine. The Mulholland Light area sports picnic tables and has a striking view of the scenic town of Lubec, Maine. It is part of the RCIP.

Located on the eastern side of Campobello, Herring Cove Provincial Park borders on a mile long pebble and sandy beach. The 425 hectare park also sports a nine hole golf course which features spectacular views of the beach in some areas. The licensed restaurant facilities provide sustenance for golfers and anybody who wants to enjoy good food, a wonderful view and friendly service. The Pro Shop next door to the restaurant sells sports equipment and clothing, many monogrammed with the island. The adjoining campground offers full service for campers, as well as unique tent cabins and one can stroll along the adjacent Herring Cove Beach, a spectacular mile long beach that is one of the premier beaches in the province.

The campground features seventy-six camp sites with forty electrical hook ups. Showers, kitchen shelters and playgrounds are available to all campers. It also has hiking trails that lead the hiker on six diverse trail systems that meet up with those of the Roosevelt International Park. 

The Roosevelt Trail system is being developed and is sponsored by The Roosevelt International park and as well, the Campobello Tourism Association has co-sponsored the island trails and will be initiating and helping to build “Happy Trails” that will eventually lead to the Lighthouse, as well as connect to Deer Island, NB, and Lubec, Maine. The Trails will form a loop starting in St. Stephen, to St. Andrews, St. George, Deer Island, Campobello, Eastport, Maine, Lubec, Maine and then back up to St. Stephen. The New Brunswick Trail system is encompassing the whole province In the meantime; there are spectacular hiking trails which wind through the beautiful Roosevelt International Park as well as connecting to the Herring Cove Provincial Park trails. They are not to be missed by the avid hiker. Along the route, and more specifically in great numbers along the trail network, one can find unique flora and fauna not seen anywhere else in the world. Naturalists love this aspect of the trails.

The Campobello Public Library is an up to date library as well as a well preserved and well museum. It is a 116 year old Heritage to the History and Culture of Campobello Island. Standing on its original location in Welshpool, it is suffused in history. It provides a gateway to memories of bygone days and is a must to visit. The present building was constructed in 1898 and the room presently used for Museum - Art Gallery was added in 1899. With the help of an Island Centennial Project a Children's Room was also added in 1967. The Library now offers web accessing, Word Processing, online reference tools, scanners, printers, and cameras as well as WIFI connection.

NATURE LOVERS – BIRD AND WHALE WATCHERS

Campobello lies on the Atlantic flyway and is a convenient stop for thousands of shore birds and other migrants. The following is a listing of places to bird watch, most of which are in the International Park; They can be found in these locations.

Visitor Centre - Mowed lawns, fields, forest edges and marine shores. Look for Nashville, Northern Palma, Magnolia, Black-throated Green Warblers, Ruby-throated Hummingbird, Purple Finch, Pine Siskin, Chipping Sparrow and more.

Friar's Head – Open meadows, mixed woods and marine shores. Usually habited by Alder Flycatcher, Nash-ville, Magnolia, Chestnut sided Warbler uncommon) & Black-throated Green.

Fire Pond Trail - Mixed woods, forest edges and ponds. Sharp-Shinned Hawk and Winter Wren as well as Bay-breasted and Wilson's Warblers, are seen in this area. Migrant Solitary Sandpiper (uncommon) at the pond.

Junction, Cranberry Point Drive and Tourist information Centre Road - Woods, thickets, alder bog. Blackburnfan, Magnolia, Wilson's Warbler (uncommon), Hairy Woodpecker.

Fox Farm - Open meadows, forest edges,tidal flats. Alder Flycatcher, Ruby-crowned Kinglet, Northern Palma, Magnolia, Chestnut-sided Warbler (uncommon).

Tidal flats – Great for migrant shorebirds. American Woodcock in low, wet areas of trails.

Cranberry Point - Marine shore front, woods, regenerating forest. Excellent gathering area for mixed flocks of warblers with fledglings in late summer. Also be on the lookout for uncommon Cape May Warbler.

Upper Duck Pond - Tidal flats, estuary and marsh,woods. Excellent for migrant shorebirds. Point for warblers, flycatchers, nuthatches, chickadees, kinglets, etc. American Black Duck, Northern Harrier seen in estuary area.

TAKE A WHALE WATCH BOAT TOUR – A MUST DO!

SEEK OUT THE MAGNIFICENT WHALES SUCH AS THE MINKE, FINBACK, HUMPBACK, & NORTHERN RIGHT WHALES THAT INHABIT THE WATERS IN THE BAY OF FUNDY

Whales arrive in our area following krill & their other food sources, which migrate here.  July, August & September are the best viewing months. Good fishing starts in June. Finbacks, Humpbacks & Minkes are common, while other varieties are possible.

The Gateway of Fundy is filled with whales, along with Basking Sharks, Tuna, Bottle-Nosed Dolphins and Porpoise. Eagles and other sea birds are plentiful. The pristine islands in our area provide habitat for a rich variety of sea life. In addition to the gentle giants, this area of the Atlantic Ocean is home to many other marine species; you can expect to see seals, harbour porpoises, bald eagles and other sea birds!
A trip to remember and cherish forever!

The Roosevelt International Park showcases an array of beautifully arranged and tended gardens. A tour of F.D.R's summer home is without cost and an absolute gem to see. There is a welcome center which provides posters and information about the park as well as the island. The staff at the Park is friendly, well trained and willing to assist at all times.  Directly across from the entrance to the Welcome Centre and FF..D.R.'s summer home the entrance to the International Park beckons the eager traveller. Although the roads which permit vehicles in the park are not paved, they are graded and kept in good repair. There is much to see in the International Park including the cranberry bog walkways, Liberty Point, Fox Farm, Raccoon Beach and much more!

There are accommodations ranging from an historic Inn which also features the wonderful work of artist Joyce Morrell, a motel facing beautiful Friar's Bay Beach with two housekeeping units right on the water, A motel which has recently been refurbished and sits right across from the golf course. There is a nest of Chalets which face the narrows and Lubec and thus the sunsets just after you cross the bridge from Lubec, Maine. And as you travel down the main road to towards the lighthouse you will find cottages clustered on a point of land that offer beautiful views of the ocean as well. Further down the road are three unique small cottages which are a walk away from Head Harbour Wharf and Head Harbour Lighthouse.

Two restaurants at present offer tempting dishes ranging from fresh salads, sandwiches and pita pockets, to succulent sea food. One is located at the Golf Course. The other is on the way to Head Harbour Lighthouse.

There are two art galleries on the island. One as mentioned above in the historic inn, as well one at Friar's Bay which also displays the award winning work of a recently moved to Canada artist. As well there are art classes available.

Two gift shops offer fascinating wares that cannot be found elsewhere, often showcasing unique items from artisans across the Maritimes.

One can take a ferry ride from Campobello Island to Deer Island (Canada) for a reasonable fee, and then take another to Eastport, Maine (also for a reasonable fee) or drive the length of pretty Deer Island to catch the free government ferry which takes you to the mainland of New Brunswick.  The ferry  trips alone are an adventure in themselves and a highlight of any holiday.

There is a lot more to do and see on beautiful Campobello Island. 

The Next blog entry will explore accommodations, gift shops, whale watching, and other things to do and see and other points of interest in depth! Get ready to pack your bags!

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